# WTB LS1 or LS2 motor

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563>\
**Category:** Classifieds\
**Created:** [November 14, 2010, 4:46pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563 "2010-11-14T16:46:57Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 20\
**Page:** 2

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Built\_Not\_Bought](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/f08c70/32.png) [@Built\_Not\_Bought](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Built_Not_Bought)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 7:11am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/21 "2010-11-15T07:11:55Z")

</div>

Sorry to hear that ur shit blew up… How did it happen anyways? where did it happen? Ill also ask who are you having do the swap? sounds like it would be a sick setup good luck with it…

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![jdaniels](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/jdaniels/32/6399_2.png) [@jdaniels](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/jdaniels)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 7:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/22 "2010-11-15T07:28:09Z")

</div>

The swap is honestly not hard, I could swap an LSx into my lawnmower.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Built\_Not\_Bought](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/f08c70/32.png) [@Built\_Not\_Bought](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Built_Not_Bought)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 7:43am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/23 "2010-11-15T07:43:29Z")

</div>

> [@FS: NEW hockey goalie helmet sz M Hackva](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-new-hockey-goalie-helmet-sz-m-hackva/37160/2):
>
> The swap is honestly not hard, I could swap an LSx into my lawnmower.

do it:lol

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 8:17am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/24 "2010-11-15T08:17:52Z")

</div>

Saturday was the shift car cruise and what not. One of my buddies bailed on me and NickAlero who was driving my red BMW wanted to bounce as well… So did the chick I was with so therefore I did not stick around for the actual drive… I did however go to the meet and hang out for a bit which got me in the mood lol… Im going for a drive and I see a 06-10 black civic with blue hids and yellow fogs at a light revving up at me from my rear view mirror lol… I took traction control off and burned out a quarter of a mile down the st and then hit it… Directly after a silver r32 with exhaust and hot chick in the passenger seat decides to join in lol… I turn onto I87 and he hits it… I do as well… I get off highway and get stuck at light, at light I see a black vette, looked like a stock ls1 revving up at me lol… I didnt wanna look like a douche racing myself so I waited for him to light em up and pass me, when he did I did in return… Right when I hit it I felt/heard my motor acting/sounding wierd… Check engine light blinked as well. I DID actually make it to my destination, turned my car off and it wouldnt start back up, just a wierd ticking sound as the clutch fan moved like a dial on a clock… My thought is I jumped timing which pretty much means I need a new head, and if im gonna spend alot of money which a new head would be, im just going to go for the swap… I will know for sure what I did later today.

Swap is being done by my mechanic/friend Mike, owner of Wreckomended autobody at exit 17… Some on here know of him… I had a little falling out with him from lack of work done to my del sol, but he has been working on my cars for over 3 yrs and is VERY honest and VERY cheap.

I originally wanted to do an e39 m5 swap, but the cost would be very significant as the motor alone would cost around $10k… Not to mention modding that motor is retarded expensive as well as cams are around $4k, pistons a few thousand and a supercharger? Try $8k MINIMUM.

LS1/LS2 swap makes sense. Somewhat Unique, cost effective and cheap to build that motor. It has been done, but that doesnt make it a non difficult swap. The motor just doesnt belong and the e39 engine bay is very packed. Hopefully it will all workout though, well see.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![GermanPSI](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/germanpsi/32/6353_2.png) [@GermanPSI](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GermanPSI)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 8:47am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/25 "2010-11-15T08:47:25Z")

</div>

I wouldn’t say you have blown motor yet. Was the oil low? Did you do a compression test? What does it do when you try to start it, still turns over?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:14am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/26 "2010-11-15T09:14:57Z")

</div>

> [@FS or FT: 92' toytoa paseo \*testing waters\*](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-or-ft-92-toytoa-paseo-testing-waters/37200/2):
>
> I wouldn’t say you have blown motor yet. Was the oil low? Did you do a compression test? What does it do when you try to start it, still turns over?

Nah, I DONT think I blew the entire motor, just the head… But replacing a head would probably cost what I’d want to spend on the ls1/ls2

All diagnostics will be done today and ill def let you guys know, Nah, doesnt turn over, like I said, I believe I jumped timing which is why it makes the odd clicking sound but not turning over.

Regaurdless im swapping the motor one way or another, my original plan was to sell my stock motor for pretty much the same price as I’d be buying the ls1/2 and only having spending doe on labor which woulda been awesome. If the motor is bad, im def spending some loot this winter, I estimate around $6-7k minimum seeing how I still need a tranny, probably a t56. Not too bad tho seeing how the e39 m5 motor I orignally wanted is 10k with no labor lol.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![GermanPSI](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/germanpsi/32/6353_2.png) [@GermanPSI](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GermanPSI)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:17am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/27 "2010-11-15T09:17:45Z")

</div>

If you jumped timing it would still turn over, unless valves broke and completely siezed the motor which didnt happen because it ran until you said you turned it off. Was the clutch replaced recently? Possibly your flywheel came loose…

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:21am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/28 "2010-11-15T09:21:07Z")

</div>

It is a very odd situation for a few reasons… The fact that it ran until I shut it off was wierd lol… the fact that it DOESNT turn over afterwards is wierd, just clicks as the clutch fan moves like an inch and the code that it came up with when scanned.

The code was P01345 …I’ve researched the code briefly and I dont seem the share anything in common with people who have the same code besides the fact that my motor was skipping/sounding sluggish

no, clutch isnt new unless you call like 10-12k miles ago new?

Does it make sense that my motor could stay running with bent valves but once I shut it off it just wouldnt start back up? That seems like what I’ve done.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:26am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/29 "2010-11-15T09:26:32Z")

</div>

> [@FS/FT: 26" Sanyo 26" widescreen HD LCD TV](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/fs-ft-26-sanyo-26-widescreen-hd-lcd-tv/37171/10):
>
> p01345 is cam/crank sensor. which explains yous issue.
> 
> your mechanic sucks ass.

Its DEF not the cam/crank sensor that was what I first thought.

…And my mechanic hasnt even seen the car yet lol, this is my personal diagnostic and YES, you could say I suck ass when it comes with engineering lol.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![bennyfizzle](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bennyfizzle/32/6291_2.png) [@bennyfizzle](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bennyfizzle)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/30 "2010-11-15T09:28:01Z")

</div>

p1345 is misfire cyl 2 w/ fuel cut off

it could be any number of things, but I doubt it’s mechanical.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![bennyfizzle](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bennyfizzle/32/6291_2.png) [@bennyfizzle](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bennyfizzle)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:28am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/31 "2010-11-15T09:28:58Z")

</div>

lol caught my edit

I just highly doubt it was mechanical failure without an over-rev

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![bennyfizzle](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bennyfizzle/32/6291_2.png) [@bennyfizzle](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bennyfizzle)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:30am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/32 "2010-11-15T09:30:13Z")

</div>

ok this is official.

:rofl

P1345 SGC (Cam Position) Sensor Circuit Malfunction/ Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation

either cam or crank sensor is bad, the code i posted above is for a different dme I guess? idk.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:31am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/33 "2010-11-15T09:31:17Z")

</div>

> [@I am an a-hole](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/i-am-an-a-hole/37196/6):
>
> lol caught my edit
> 
> I just highly doubt it was mechanical failure without an over-rev

I also have red misfire cyl 2 with fuel cut off, dont think its that either… And im not gonna lie, I was in red a couple times ☹ Damn fucking bmw’s only rev to like 5700, what is that shit? Im used to 9500 lol

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:32am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/34 "2010-11-15T09:32:47Z")

</div>

> [@RANTING FOR EVERYONE!!!!!!!](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/ranting-for-everyone/37136/76):
>
> ok this is official.
> 
> :rofl
> 
> P1345 SGC (Cam Position) Sensor Circuit Malfunction/ Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation
> 
> either cam or crank sensor is bad, the code i posted above is for a different dme I guess? idk.

If it was a sensor it would run, just not good… It would run like a bad coil pack, all stumbly… And if it DIDNT run it should DEF turn over… it doesnt.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![bennyfizzle](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/bennyfizzle/32/6291_2.png) [@bennyfizzle](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/bennyfizzle)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:34am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/35 "2010-11-15T09:34:44Z")

</div>

well that’s not true at all, our ignition timing is based on cam and crank position.

if the sensor is failed, and isnt picking up a reading from the crank pulley, the motor will not fire.

replace them all, check the battery, if the fan is turning the motor is turning.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![GermanPSI](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/germanpsi/32/6353_2.png) [@GermanPSI](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GermanPSI)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:35am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/36 "2010-11-15T09:35:40Z")

</div>

Yeh come on Benny you know a bad crank sensor isn’t going to make the car not turn over.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:36am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/37 "2010-11-15T09:36:26Z")

</div>

> [@new chick](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/new-chick/37188/34):
>
> well that’s not true at all, our ignition timing is based on cam and crank position.
> 
> if the sensor is failed, and isnt picking up a reading from the crank pulley, the motor will not fire.
> 
> replace them all, check the battery, if the fan is turning the motor is turning.

hmmm… alright, I will do this. Not that this makes any difference, but my battery did die when all of this happened? I had to put a jump pack on it to roll up the window when it was on the tow truck…tried to start it then but got the same clicking sound.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![MclarenGP](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/57b2e6/32.png) [@MclarenGP](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/MclarenGP)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:37am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/38 "2010-11-15T09:37:41Z")

</div>

car can still crank w/ bad crank sensor just wont run.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![love4boost](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/love4boost/32/6658_2.png) [@love4boost](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/love4boost)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:37am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/39 "2010-11-15T09:37:43Z")

</div>

> [@On another topic](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/36970/131):
>
> Yeh come on Benny you know a bad crank sensor isn’t going to make the car not turn over.

Im not doubting him I just could have sworn I saw a bmw with a bad crank sensor turning over… This maybe a stupid question to ask, but could you pop start it with a bad one?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![GermanPSI](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/germanpsi/32/6353_2.png) [@GermanPSI](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/GermanPSI)\
**Post date:** [November 15, 2010, 9:38am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563/40 "2010-11-15T09:38:05Z")

</div>

Omg dude ok that explains it not turning over, I’m here thinking something is seized and you failed to say the battery was dead lol

[Previous page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563.md?page=1)

[Next page](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/wtb-ls1-or-ls2-motor/255563.md?page=3)
