# Yard drainage guys, I need some input.

**URL:** <https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334>\
**Category:** NYSpeed Off Topic\
**Created:** [May 1, 2013, 10:50am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334 "2013-05-01T10:50:07Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 14\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![BOBBYGRV](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ed8c4c/32.png) [@BOBBYGRV](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BOBBYGRV)\
**Post date:** [May 2, 2013, 6:25am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/21 "2013-05-02T06:25:03Z")

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> [@95dime](#):
>
> bobby, use sloride’s advice of a water level. its quick and easy. the difference in water level at each end will tell you the elevation difference from your connection at the street. my guess is you will have plenty of depth to make that extra reach but may have to repipe from the tee coming off the street. you’ll need minimum 1/8" slope, that is, for every foot, itll drop an 1/8 of an inch. so in 8 feet, it drops 1 inch in elevation. 3" diameter will handle it (~1400sqft for your area) however since youre underground youll probably have to bump it up to 4" incase the inspector shows up…
> 
> if your yard drains fairly well, i would just run a gutter to the back and dump it at the back edge of the yard…

My yard doesn’t really drain that well. I have fairly new drain tile in my basement that diverts the water into my sump and then pumps it out to the street. My property is extremely flat with no where for the water to go. I could try putting the downspouts away from the garage and seeing how my yard looks after a few good rains and then address it if needed. My biggest concern at the moment is getting the water away from the base of my garage. I need to scrape and paint my garage and I would rather fix the problem before doing that. I also need to retrench 10/2 wire to my garage since they ran 14/2 out there and half my living room is on the same breaker as my garage. If I need to add a trench for PVC, I want to do them both in one shot.

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**Author:** ![iwanagofast1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/i/a9adbd/32.png) [@iwanagofast1](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/iwanagofast1)\
**Post date:** [May 4, 2013, 4:33pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/22 "2013-05-04T16:33:02Z")

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use a dry well for your gutter drainage issue.  
 ![http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/images/mwpwell.png](http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/images/mwpwell.png)

A dry well may even work for your standing water issue as well. Dry wells are a relatively inexpensive option that requires minnimal digging and minnimal planning

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**Author:** ![TurboTSi](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/22d042/32.png) [@TurboTSi](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/TurboTSi)\
**Post date:** [May 4, 2013, 8:15pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/23 "2013-05-04T20:15:58Z")

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Use a 55 gallon barrel off of craigslist, don’t waste your money on the Flow Wells sold at Lowes. I have been researching drainage for a month, I just finished putting in about 200 feet of drain tile and downspout drainage. I live on a hill, so I daylighted mine to the back yard with a pop up emitter because I didn’t feel like digging a massive hole for the dry well. If I start to see soil or grass erosion, the dry well is the next step. Definitely the option for you.

Dig 4 foot by 4 foot hole, line with GOOD weed blocker, drill a lot of fricken holes in barrel, place barrel in hole and fill with 2 stone around the barrel, cover top with weed blocker, then put soil over it and leave a hole on top with pop up drain for overflow. You’re done.

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**Author:** ![1QIKZ](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/1qikz/32/6112_2.png) [@1QIKZ](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/1QIKZ)\
**Post date:** [May 5, 2013, 4:10am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/24 "2013-05-05T04:10:16Z")

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I have a laser transit. I might be able to stop by this week to at least establish some elevations so you can make an educated choice.

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**Author:** ![BOBBYGRV](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ed8c4c/32.png) [@BOBBYGRV](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BOBBYGRV)\
**Post date:** [May 5, 2013, 5:02am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/25 "2013-05-05T05:02:11Z")

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Can you do estimates on concrete driveways too?

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**Author:** ![1QIKZ](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/1qikz/32/6112_2.png) [@1QIKZ](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/1QIKZ)\
**Post date:** [May 5, 2013, 5:15am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/26 "2013-05-05T05:15:57Z")

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I can only do small jobs. If the area is pretty sound, I can quite my polymer concrete surfacing product. Would have to see it to determine. Thanks.

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**Author:** ![BOBBYGRV](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ed8c4c/32.png) [@BOBBYGRV](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BOBBYGRV)\
**Post date:** [May 5, 2013, 5:20am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/27 "2013-05-05T05:20:46Z")

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Ill get a better shot but this is most of the area that I need replaced. It’s under my car port that has 3 posts bolted to the driveway. Sorry for the shitty picture, it’s taken from my security camera.

![http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/05/a5age2yt.jpg](http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/05/a5age2yt.jpg)

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**Author:** ![1QIKZ](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/1qikz/32/6112_2.png) [@1QIKZ](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/1QIKZ)\
**Post date:** [May 5, 2013, 6:25am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/28 "2013-05-05T06:25:09Z")

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Based in what I see, I’m gonna say replace. I think there was a thread going with potential concrete contractors. I have one guy but he’s not cheap, always busy, but does good work.

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**Author:** ![focusinprogress](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/focusinprogress/32/7227_2.png) [@focusinprogress](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/focusinprogress)\
**Post date:** [May 23, 2013, 11:57am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/29 "2013-05-23T11:57:29Z")

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if Andy hasn’t come by to give you a hand…you could set this thing up pretty easily and use a tape measure to see what your elevation difference is…only $25 asking price!

[http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/3813656654.html](http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/3813656654.html)

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**Author:** ![BOBBYGRV](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ed8c4c/32.png) [@BOBBYGRV](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BOBBYGRV)\
**Post date:** [May 23, 2013, 12:03pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/30 "2013-05-23T12:03:46Z")

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I had my buddy stop over who does draintile and he took a look at it. The issue is that the pipe going out to the street is the black corrugated pipe with the holes in it. It will have to be replaced at some point with PVC since it will most likely be crushed if it hasn’t already. I had an estimate done on the gutters on the garage and the guy said he would be comfortable draining the water into the yard right now. Obviously he didn’t want to do the work or he was telling the truth.

This is where I am at for right now. Still debating on which route I want to go with it.

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**Author:** ![97FormulaWS-6](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/97formulaws-6/32/7384_2.png) [@97FormulaWS-6](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/97FormulaWS-6)\
**Post date:** [May 23, 2013, 12:08pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/31 "2013-05-23T12:08:18Z")

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He didn’t want to do the work!

IMO, trench out to the street and replace it all with PVC and do it the right way. Should take a weekend to do properly, maybe a little longer depending on how many guys you have digging.

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**Author:** ![BOBBYGRV](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/b/ed8c4c/32.png) [@BOBBYGRV](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/BOBBYGRV)\
**Post date:** [May 23, 2013, 12:15pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/32 "2013-05-23T12:15:14Z")

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He did tell me that obviously anytime you can get the water into the street, you want to, but he said it wasn’t a must. At this point, I will probably wait until it has to be done. I have other more important projects to tackle at the moment. I will install the gutters, drop the water in the yard and if it is still a big issue, I will handle it at that point.

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**Author:** ![Vile](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/vile/32/7595_2.png) [@Vile](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/Vile)\
**Post date:** [May 23, 2013, 4:31pm UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/33 "2013-05-23T16:31:48Z")

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> [@iwanagofast1](#):
>
> use a dry well for your gutter drainage issue.  
> ![http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/images/mwpwell.png](http://www.earthcontactproducts.com/images/mwpwell.png)
> 
> A dry well may even work for your standing water issue as well. Dry wells are a relatively inexpensive option that requires minnimal digging and minnimal planning

In before the sinkhole. Plant something to absorb water.

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**Author:** ![breakstuff](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex034/user_avatar/forums.speedlife.net/breakstuff/32/5413_2.png) [@breakstuff](https://forums.speedlife.net/u/breakstuff)\
**Post date:** [May 24, 2013, 11:43am UTC](https://forums.speedlife.net/t/yard-drainage-guys-i-need-some-input/230334/34 "2013-05-24T11:43:38Z")

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Is that drain even taking water? Standing water in the sump-discharge will freeze solid and your pump’s motor will burn out if the water has nowhere to go.

Someone buried that pipe shallow, that black perforated stuff is not straight anymore (if it even was on day 1), dirt and sand came it through the slits and filled the bellies with dirt. If/when you replace it, main runs need to be solid 4" sch35, extra pickup legs are perforated. HOLES DOWN!

You should have enough room for pitch to get a drain to the front corner of your garage. If you have 100’ to go, you need 12" of drop. If the storm sewer at the curb is 24 deep, you’re in good shape. Start at the street and work back, keeping decent pitch to that sump-pump and downspout. You may have to ‘cheat’ and run a little flatter across the yard to keep decent cover/depth to the garage. It will drain fine as long as you have _some_ pitch, and the majority of the roof and sump water will drain freely ahead of it.

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