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so if you dont like constructive criticism why in hell did you make a build thread.
radiator appears to be a scirocco “style”. dual fans from a porsche 944 will work on it.
as far as the brakes go. i’m not a fan for a street car for 1 reason. i could care less about the fact that you went to manual brakes. I did the same thing on my own car. a good set of pads/rotors and proper brake fluid and you are good to go.
my only bitch with that setup is it appears you turned it into a “suicide” system. car that gets pushed onto a trailer, and runs down a 1/4 mile–no issue. Hell, the majority of the cars who have this setup are using the chute to stop their car to begin with. you toss the chute, then apply brakes. Yet if one line fails anywhere you are fucked as you will bleed you master dry. Thankfully you are in wv as that would not pass pa state inspection. thats my only gripe.
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quick comment on your rad— they make versions with out the filler neck. in vw’s infinite wisdom, they stated w/ the rad style like you have. then they went to a rad w/ no provisions for a fill and the system was filled at the resivoir bottle. so if making it fit means chopping the shit out of stuff keep that in mind. you could always put a remote fill in line off the rad hose.
now on to the master cylinder discussion–
if you note, your stock master cylinder had 2 lines coming off it. this is mandated by law. your stock brake system had 2 circuits-- meaning front wheels on one line, rear on the other. i have heard of this being called dual bowl system too. this is mandated by law since 1967 i think. from the looks of your setup, i cant tell exactly where all your lines run. however, it is apparent that the master cylinder has one line off it much like a clutch master and feeds a union of some sort that feeds all 4 lines. so a break at any corner will essentially leak the master cylinder reservoir dry.-- that means no brakes.
this is because back in the days of a single line off the master cylinder–which subsequently has a single chamber reservoir-- it was possible to loose all breaks if you had one fitting come loose and seep fluid out over night draining system dry or simply a line failed for any reason the entire system drains out. this is why in old movies people are killed by their enemies because the enemy had cut the brake line. my first hand experience was on a friends old chevy biscayne bubble top low rider. a brake line was broken when hopping the car on switches leaving it brake-less because it drained out all fluid.
i know you are going for a clean look. if you are entertaining thought of taking it to open track days then i’d suggest putting some thought into running a interior mount setup. that would get you your clean look while upgrading your brakes.
basically you run a new pedal setup. the peddle is hooked to 2 individual masters via a bias bar. lets assume that both masters are the same diameter. they are connected via linkage together called a bias bar. the bias bar hooks to the peddle push rod. cheating the peddle push rod to the left or right will favor that side master cylinder-- making it possible to lock up the front brakes 100% but the rears only see 50% or vice versa pending what side you cheat. keep it dead in the middle and both masters get 100% brake force. this is because if the bar is offset one side stroke of the peddle is pushing the bar like this-- /. yet if the bar was set to dead middle, it would push the bar evenly like this— ____
to make shit more interesting, you can run two different diameter masters–because this will effect brake pressures-- and further fuck w/ it by the bias bar. ill find you one on ebay here to show you an example because i dont feel like laying out in the snow taking a pic up under the dash of the car. oh, because the masters are tucked up under the dash, use a remote reservoir in the engine bay and just a long fill line to the masters. same principle use on porsches and vw’s w/ remote reservoir.
and im not doing this to bust your balls. you have good ideals, and oddly we think a like on shit. a lot of stuff you did on your car i did on my own. yet some of your ideals need expanded upon and developed further to be 100% sound. im a proponent of having clean installs and having shit be reliable and safe. but function ultimately trumps fashion.
here is one that was made for a bolt on in stock form for a honda-- it has all the parts i mention but is not a hidden setup.
this is a better representation of an under dash setup-- masters are offset the other way toward the driver for room–
definitely would give you a shaved firewall look! thats the little things that people dont do. everyone does shaved and wire tucked engine bays yet i dont think i have ever seen anyone do this to clean up the master cylinder/booster area. in this case it is a win win-- clean firewall that sets your shit apart form others and a more adjustable brake setup.
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it doesn’t need to have a baffle, it has 2 chambers insde the master cylinder. 1 to feed the front, 1 to feed the rear. hence if you lose a rear brake line, you still have fronts to stop the car. it’s not great, but it still stops the car. if you lose a line now, you’d have absolutely no brakes. but you’ll never listen to anyone, so why am i wasting my breath?
well said.
i guess as long as it looks clean, thats all that matters ! ! to hell with it bein safe !
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doubt* and no but when you go careening out of control and hurt yourself or someone else you are going to look way more dumb than any of us.
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mind explaining to me then how your single line setup is equal to or better then the oem setup? what are the pro’s to your setup? the cons are you cut one brake line or drop fluid anywhere you lose your brakes. what is the pro?
im not trying to be a dick. i know you have your mind set on something. i am not and will not be an internet tough guy and turn this into a flame war. however-- i will engage in technical discussions in a polite manner, as i have done so far. if you can explain to me the merits of your setup and educate me on how it is equal to or better than a stock master i will cease to question it.
In my last post here I’d like to point out this is not a debate like your cam is wrong or this brand part makes this much power. This is about safety and braking function.
There is how Chasebays does it, and his stuff is as clean or perhaps even cleaner than yours. He is smart enough to keep everything how it is factory. as it was factory, just relocated. /end
god do i hope you careen out of control with no brakes and die in a fiery crash, so we can all sit back, laugh and say, “hey, we told him so”.
haha, i would think that ‘just because’ people explained to you that if you lose a hard line you will bleed your master cylinder dry and have absolutely zero brake pressure, that YES, you may actually consider doing something correct and not incorrect, but kudo’s for being not only hard-headed, but stupid!
what is even more funny is that it’s not like we give a shit about your life or that it’s a pissing match… it’s rather when you attempt to drive that heap somewhere and end up rear-ending someone at speed that it’ll all set in.