IM CALLING YOU OUT FIREHAWK853!!!

[Muscle50]

I started installing my new camshaft into my new ls6 block from texas speed today and I noticed that the cam bearings look like they had been rough honed, is this normal? As I was installing the cam everything was good till I got to the 4th cam bearing then it got really difficult to go any further, after pulling it out several times I decided to give it a couple of taps with the rubber mallet, after the cam got centered on the bearing it loosened right up and felt normal and I had no problem putting it in the rest of the way, when i went to pull it out again it was still tight in the same spot. Do I have an undersized cam bearing??? is that why it looks like someone tried to hone the bearings out? Will this be a problem even though when its in all the way it feels fine. what should I do about this?

When all else fails bang on it with a mallet. Undersized cam bearing, are you for real?

I went to the track today and I noticed by my last run and on the drive home when I started pressing the throttle and the motor started loosing vacume approching boost the oil pressure would drop. as soon as I let off the throttle the oil pressure would come back up. its still lower than normal though. it will be around 40psi with no throttle and 20 hg of vacume, when the vacume drops to 10 or lower the oil pressure drops to about 20 when approching boost. normally im around 40-45 @ 20hg and pressure increases with rpm. I was playing around a bit today with my breathers today, am I pulling oil out of the crankcase? or did I hurt something, the car doesent seem to be running as smooth either. almost wants to stall at idle. Im going to pull plugs later. also the oil is a little bit old. probably 4000mi, and Im running meth injection.

looks like I may have spun a bearing. Im assuming a rod bearing. Iwas wondering if its possible to put them in without removing the engine and how? can I just lift the motor slightly or is there some other trick.

I was at the track over the weekend and after the last couple of runs and on the ride home i noticed my oil pressure was lower than normal and when I cracked the throttle the pressure dropped. I changed the oil and cut the filter up and sure enough there were tons of copper shavings. I pulled the motor down and found that my thrust bearing and the one in front of it were fu–ing fried. the cap side of the bearing was actually cracked!! and they all looked like they were heated. the rod bearings looked decent and the motor dident make any noise. I was playing around with crankcase ventalation at the track. and my oil was 5/30 with around 3000 on it. did I boost the crankcase and lift all the oil? maybe I twisted the mains? Im running arp studs and the berrings were clevite 77s. the shops I talked to were puzzled that I had this problem at my horsepower level.

can someone tell me what this means? Thanks!

I am not puzzled at all. I can tell you exactly what it means. You are a stupid fuck (hack) and have no idea what the hell you are doing.

installed d1sc about 3 weeks ago, ran car low on fuel when the problem happened. sti;; having intermittant problem.

I also forgot to mention, when I put my fuel pump in somehow I managed to leave out one of the little rubber feet that go on the bottom of the sump. (I found it laying on the ground after I finished installing it) I was wondering I maybe the pump sock is being pinched on occasion? it threw codes a few days ago 0152, 0300, 0302. O2 on pass side front, random misfire, misfire on number 6. The guy that tuned my car for me said hes seen this twice before and it was a bad O2 sensor, it just seems odd that this all started happening around me running extremely low on fuel

When you put your car back together “extra” parts/bolts are NOT A GOOD THING

im looking at between 650 and 750 rwhp on my new build and I was wondering if I should go with an arp stud kit or if the stock bolts are sufficient. d1sc 14-16psi 346ci. patriot lq9 heads

Nah stock GM TTY bolt will be fine. Better yet use your old set you stupid fuck.

what piston to wall clearance are you guys building your motors to or having them built to for 2618 diamond pistons for a blower motor? the spec card with the pistons says .0035, than in the extra paper that came with the pistons it mentions clearance again. like .001 to .0025. are they talking about an additional .001 to .0025 on top of the .0035? the motors Ive built in the past for people using lots of nitrous with a utetic piston or a forged piston were in the .003 range, this is my first blower motor so I just want to double check with people who run them. Thanks.

If you don’t know the answer to this question why the fuck are you building engines

i built my own and saved myself at least 1500 dollars

You sure did :tup:

got screwed by J and J speed shop when I first installed my blower, they were clueless!!! wound up with bad detonation and blown head gaskets, wasted time and money having it tuned and ruined by those assholes. met some other nice people that also got screwed by them and helped fix there cars, and also met Bob from EPP who is awsome!!! so I guess some good came out of it

LOL you really are a stupid fuck. First off you have no clue what the hell you are doing. When I first stopped over your shack to check out your Procharger install you had all kinds of vacuum lines off and you even had the supercharger bypass valve disconnected. Did you ever think you ended up with bad detonation and a blown head gasket because your car had composite gaskets (not MLS) and your car was seeing 11psi on the dyno on a relatively warm day. I believe me and Chuck both told you that 11 psi was pushing it on a stock bottom end, with non-MLS gaskets and that 1 batch of bad guess (low octane) could ruin your day. I am also positive that me and Chuck both told you a few times to get a larger pulley. I find it funny how Chuck has tuned his car with no problems (which does make more power than yours), and also this customer: http://jandjspeedshop.com/images/C6/

So either A.) Chuck doesn’t know how to tune or B.) You are a stupid fuck

I think 99.5% would pick B

[Muscle50]

Just has my T56 Rebuit with all new upgraded parts.
(1A Package & brand new 4th gear from six speeds inc)
All gears work great but it grinds when engaging 4th.
The hydralics are working great with stock adjustable master.
I have it so it engages half way up right now to make sure it is disengaging.
What can be wrong? It never grinded 4th before I guess it was worn out.
It does not grind if its not moving. Once above 5mph it grinds 4th when first put it in. Once in 4th works fine. Help.

Update,
I installed a brand new GM Master & Textralia sent me a Brand new OZ700!
My installer called me and said the clutch seems to be releasing properly with no dragging. And he partially disassembled my tranny to inspect and everything looked fine.
BUT 4TH STILL GRINDS! I think car is cursed or something!
My installer is going to get ahold of Amber to see if they can figure out whats wrong.
$914 in parts $300 for rebuild labor, $300 for clutch install twice and its still not right.
I am just extremely frustrated and out of ideas.
My installer sent me this pic.

Ok Thanks.
I forgot too add, I had Jon replace the Slave w/throwout bearing too.
So Everything is new.
Could it be endplay on the input shaft (4th Gear).
Not sure if he had the right tools to measure?
I am thinking the best thing would be sending the tranny too you.
He still has the car and said he was going to call you.

I can bet he didn’t have the “right” tools to measure and even if he did it wouldn’t matter. LOL at the sending the tranny to Six Speed Inc comment. You should’ve done that in the first place.

How about too loose? He took it apart and adjusted the endplay looser.
Now its grinding in 3rd & 4th! :bang: Its actually worse in 3rd now.
With the car off it is real hard to get into 3rd or 4th.
It will go half way (where it would grind if running) then if you push harder
it will pop into gear and it does not matter in the clutch pedal is down or not.
I re-installed my adj Ram Master last night and it made no difference.
The clutch is not dragging anymore. I have it adjusted all the way out.
It is engaging about 70% up right now just too make sure.

I think you should let John Kroll work on it again. Maybe you can lose 1st & 2nd along with 3rd & 4th.

[Willybeen]

lol… stupid thread…

go chuck…

[HotRodKid]

snip

option C: this guy is the king of sneaky and has 123718946985768hp, because he has mastered a level of physics that the rest of the world wont be at till the year 384,719,238

[speedped79]

^ owned!

[Willybeen]

omg i posted before jesse… just saw that…

jesse > this thread and the lurker…

Im going with B btw.

[HotRodKid]

epic ownage ? lol

and the race hasnt even happened yet !

[ImportMuscle]

In

the stupidity of the OP is fucking awesome

[9c1ny]

Oh is this that fat guy with the procharged TA…I was running faster then you with my bolt on LS1 at Lancaster :lol:

lol the red 98+??

Yeah that dude is pathetic he runs slower than stock LS1 times

When I was there he was running 8.9s :rubicant:

[Firehawk853]

haha, nice post john.

I saw the pics the other day. Looks nice:headbang:

I see that you boys must have your fingers in the pot too. How badly fucked up was this car when it finally came you your shop? I’m sure you can tell us, please share. Him and his buddy joe mondi. http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35738&highlight=mondi

[boardjnky4]

i cant believe there is no much hate over who can toss more money into a car and get down the track fastest.

[Willybeen]

i cant believe there is no much hate over who can toss more money into a car and get down the track fastest.

that is super easy… auto, stall, nitrous, ls1… 10’s… but its more fun to have a clutch… i’ve yet to hear any numbers from chuck… maybe this year he’ll get his act to the track

[boardjnky4]

its just stupid though. It seems like this guy is just sitting around building a car so that he can talk shit to other people. how lame.

[Willybeen]

its just stupid though. It seems like this guy is just sitting around building a car so that he can talk shit to other people. how lame.

agreed

[articzap]

its just stupid though. It seems like this guy is just sitting around building a car so that he can talk shit to other people. how lame.

How fast you get down the track doesn’t make you cool though.

[boardjnky4]

How fast you get down the track doesn’t make you cool though.

exactly

[turbo_ls1_ss]

OH MY GOD

john kroll you are fucking dumb dude.

i personally can ATTEST, AGAIN, that the car was in perfect running condition when chuck was done with it. although, he STRONGLY recommended to put a bigger pulley on you IGNORANT jackass.

we have a good laugh at you all the time. you belong on the same catagory as sponger, maybe even worse you hack.

i especially appreciated the time you “introduced” yourself to me at duffs after i had already met and had conversations with you numerous time at chucks. chucks house; where you proceeded to pull THREE GEARS at WOT in his fucking NEIGHBORHOOD you ASSHOLE. oh, then at duffs, you then put your hands on the PLUG FOR MY MAF, and go “WHAT DOES THIS DO” as you UNPLUG MY MAF ON MY RUNNING CAR YOU IDIOT.

you have to be one of the most mentally challenged idiots ive ever come across.

oh and good luck with chuck :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

after he embarrasses your ass, i want my piece you dipshit

[articzap]

oh, then at duffs, you then put your hands on the PLUG FOR MY MAF, and go “WHAT DOES THIS DO” as you UNPLUG MY MAF ON MY RUNNING CAR YOU IDIOT.

:lol::lol:

This proves you shouldn’t own a fast car.

[HotRodKid]

wow … fucking wow …

[turbo_ls1_ss]

to further prove this idiot’s stupidity, he couldn’t even figure out the username box was not the box one types in their email address