battery relocation made easy....for stangs

PittSpeed Automotive
1

alright guys and gals. i just got done with my relocation and i got this from an old article which makes this a safe way of doing a relocation so it doesnt interupt the alternator, thereby elimnating any voltage spikes that could fry ingnition boxes and computer components. it will interrupt the positive side of the electrical system.

1…get yourself a sealed box. i used a aluminum box, but the moroso one is a very good piece. you should drop the tank to mount the box so you dont drill into the tank. i got mine right up next to the rear panels. my vent tube goes down by the gas tube. i have my cables going into my panels.

2…i used a flaming river switch and mounted it useing 2 L brackets to the spare wheel well back near the taillights. i have my rod going thru next to the plate and lights. makes sure you have your switch setup so you push it off and pull to have it on.

  1. now get a spare starter solenoid and mount it in the wheel well. i mounted mine down on the flat part of the back of hte wheel well. this way the switch and the solenoid is now coverd from visilbity by your spare tire cover and carpet.

  2. now get yourself some 1/0 cable [i used 2/0 welding cable] and run it from the neg side of the battery to a good bare metal spot on the unibody.

  3. now run a 1/0 from the battery to the one side of the solenoid. this will be your main feed for power

  4. now run a 4/0 gauge fused to the kill switch from the same side of the solenoid as the main feed.

  5. now from the other side of the solenoid run a 1/0 cable to the starter

  6. now from the other side of the kill switch run a 8 gauge to the front solenoid. connect the 8 guage to the terminal where the old battery cable once was. [ i used 4 guage for this application… i just had it to use]

  7. now run another wire from the main side of the rear solenoid to the Alternator. use 4 guage

  8. now run a 1/0 wire for a ground from the block to the unibody up front. make sure you tie in your ECU ground to the same spot. the ECU ground is the one with the quickconnect connector on it.

  9. now its time to run the crank signal wire from the front of the car to the rear solenoid. this is the red/blue striped wire. now use 14guage wire to extend this wire to teh S terminal on the rear solenoid.

now you should be completely done with your relocation. this method is NHRA approved and is safter for your electrical system.

2

:cool:

3

The way it sounds. It will not shut off the car when the switch is pushed in when the car is running. Because the alt is still supplying power to the ignition.

4

X2
and mandatory that when the switch is turned off the car will stop running. but need to run a wire from the alternator back to the switch. Otherwise good job on what you have done so far.

5

i got that from an article in a 5.0 mustang & super fords mag. the guy says its NHRA legal. it came from OCT 02 issue pages 133 to 141

hows its set up it kills the ignition and all other power up front. bascially like having a rear mounted key to shut off the car. so its just like shutting the key off and the car shuts off but saftely done

6

sounds like a sweet setup…

7

thanks, and youll be hearing from me like friday or sat