2 AW1500Q Audio Bahn Subs - Rated 800RMS , 1600 peack EACH ~ 1600 RMS constant, 3200 MAX combined. 130 oz magnets. 93.9 dB sensitivity. Duel Voice Coil. Ect Ect
Boss Ripper Class D 3000 W* Monoblock Amp -
Max Power, 2 OHM 2200W x 1
RMS Power, 4 OHM 1200W x 1
Max Power, 1 OHM 3000W x 1
Remote Subwoofer Level Control (See other pictures)
Signal -to Noise Ratio > 100dB
THD 0.05%
The Cap is A 1.5 farad DHD cap, never used, as yu can see from the pics it was never wired in, jsut bolted up. I never beat on the system hard, so i never hooked it up.
The box is built into my spare tire compartment. non-ported, and each sub is in its own housing seprate from the other. Not sure on total dementions but it pretty much sucks up the entire space of my hatch,
Willing to sell everything at ocne or part out - PM me if interested
haha no nuttin aganst MDF - i got the wood the box is mad of dirt cheap, actually proally cheaper. Wood screws, liquid nail, caulk (sp), was all i really had to pay for. Its heavy as hell and it does the job. Dosent even flex and holds up strong :tup:
complaining that someone didnt use partical board for a sub box that isnt ment for competition is like complaining you mom doesnt use racing tires on her grocery getter
i used partical board for my first sub boxes too , and im happy i did cause i screwed up a few times in the process - getting 4 10’s behind the seat of a standard cab S10 isnt the easiest thing to do
id rather buy an amatuer built partical board box then an amatuer built fiberglass enclosure, thats for sure
seriously? My daily driver has ~30mm xmax, 38mm xsus and ~2.4kw actual wrms. Particle board? that shit will not hold up to a TC 4hp woofer with two Orion 2.5kD amps.
Seriously, MDF is ~$4 more per sheet. If You are going to do it properly, do it properly the first time.
