That Sux
+1. I just took a look at those pictures on my big monitor and the caps look fine. It looks like a short traveled straight across the board.
Seriously. Stop and think about this for a minute. You’re having one problem after another. I’m pretty sure you paid less than 2k for this car. If you part it out you can probably get at least $800. Take this as a learning experience not to buy old used dodge sports cars for <$2000 as your DD. It’s tough to give up on a car but this thing is never going to be a good daily driver.
What to say the next car isn’t the same deal ?
just sell me the car 600 cash money
3si.org, there should be tons of them on there…just register and post it up!
If I where to go to a dealership and ask some questions what dealership would best best dodge or Mitsubishi ?
I just called, Able, M&M, Marks, Frontier,and INS, None of which Have a 3s on the lot.
I’ll toss another 20 into this. Those caps don’t look anywhere near damaged, leaking, or bulged. And the transistors, and IC such would very rarely if ever blow like that unless there was a short.
Find someone that knows what they are doing and have them check to see if anything is shorted. Or you’ll probably fry another one unless it was caused by testing with the battery connected and shorting something.
right but I ran a straight 12v wire from the relay to the Pump tank it still didnt work Which, made me belive it was the ECU which is before the relay and it was fryed. Althougt thecaps do look good, so Im lost.
able has a white 92 in back i know i got parts from it 3 weeks ago…and its still there, if u want the ecu ill pick it up 4 u
Bump, because I like troubleshooting and this one has me curious. What exactly did you do when you "ran a straight 12v wire from the relay to the Pump "?
You mean besides make the ECU extra crispy?
I feel bad for this guy. This is internet troubleshooting gone wrong. People suggest he try something, he attempts to, and the problems get worse. Someone with a little more mechanical background needs to be there to make sure our suggestions are done properly so no more harm is done to this poor car.
I feel bad for him too, haha but it’s nice to have someone else in the “I fried my ECU” club. (Tach install gone wrong on my Sentra. Didn’t really know what I was doing and I was careless. Stripped one wire, wrong signal. Stripped another wire, wrong signal. -notice that I didn’t insulate the first wire when I was done- ZAP they touched and arc’d. Get this: The engine wouldn’t STOP running. I had to unplug the coil to stop it then unplug the battery to get the ECU to stop pulling 12V and draining my battery.)
Anyhow, I’ve got a sneaking suspicion he did one of 2 things:
- Ran 12V from the relay input, essentially trying to power the fuel pump off the ECU’s output signal, overamping the contact and frying it
- Jumpered the signal side of the relay, shorting the ECU output to ground, overamping the contact and frying it.
Either one would be good news at this point because it would mean that he doesn’t have another problem to fix before he can put in the rebuilt ECU.
Looking at how much of that ECU got smoked my best guess is a short to ground. If that short was created in the relay jumpering experiment or if it exists somewhere else in the wiring is my only question.