ohh yeah now its a royal pain inthe ass to get off since the puller doesnt have anything to hold on to!
wtf kind of power do you have that you’re laying rubber in 5th from 70mph???
tdi guys seem to keep o2j’s together with 180hp , 390tq~
something was tweaked. you dont make near the power/torque to be shreading a gear box under pretty normal driving. especially being a TDi part.
28-29psi on some slicks and i could understand it happening in 4th.
time to sell that diff. buy a used 02J for 3-500$ and start saving for a good transmission
Well it was my first tranny I ever built so I kind of expected something to go wrong.:rofl When I pulled the gears off the old trans I did heat them up a little becasue they were on there solid. I guess that would take the temper out of them. Both shafts are in the case and the top bearings solid, no slop at all, so I doubt they spread apart.
BTW it didnt come out of a TDI car, it was one of the early 2.0 MK4’s that got the .7X 5th gear. But I will assume that the are the exact same gear as the real tdi trans/motor combo.
Yeah that TQ number I am not near with it detuned and @ 16psi atm.
Mad HPz Y0!11! You dont wana race me I neva loose.
:rofl
ok then
I removed the busted gears today threw some cheap gear oil in and let it run a few mins in 4th gear up in the air at idle. The flushed the rest of the shit out. put some fresh gear oil in and buttoned it back up, 5th gearless.
I ordered up the APT 5th gear cuff to stiffen the case and keep the shaft from spreading under load. 4th gear at 65mph is 3100 rpm. so it sint that bad… it wont see much highway use anyway. So come spring time, I will have a little more confidance in this thing with slicks mounted up.
gotta pay to play I guess.
what kind of power is your car making?
no less than 990whp on pump gas
get AAA now then or bring spare axles.
Have yet to be to the dyno, but the .82 3076 built motor WAIC and 830+CC fueling… tuned correctly I hope for 400whp.
Check and Check…
not with that Unifail running how youve described it. also you dont really rev highenough to warrant that .82 either. if you had a built AEB(or a true 2.0, 83x92.8) with atleast CAT 3651’s i could see having a larger housing since you could rev to 8500 or so, but on a stock cam small port head, .63 would have been your best bet.
oh. also changing axles gets old, i wish you luck.
bunch of uni cars are running awful i’ve noticed, but the FFE cars are running flawless lol
FFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
Baby steps guys. $1400 for a turbo. AEB is about $400+ what ever parts are. $80 for a 80mm TB and $150 for parts to make my intake mani.
I got the bigger turbo becasue its alot easier to just sell a stock head and polished manifold than get ass rapped on selling a 30R and having to get another $1400+ turbo to be where I would be when I get $$$ and a AEB setup.
Plus my uni issue is idle only, so far. up top I have 19deg into it sofar zero pull and spot on afr’s.
time will tell.
should have gotten a .63 35R if you wanted room to grow:excited
sell ya an AEB. <70k on it. no sludge, off a running car. with cams and tensioner.
that shouldnt be an issue. what i read in your post is silly. that idle AFR would make driveability terrible. i could never deal with that.
and id hope you have no pull at 16psi. run some man boost and see how shes doing. :thumbup
I will keep that in mind for the aeb, when i come up with $$ ill let you know. I have been expierementing with the idle afr thing. If I jump off the clutch it plummets to 10.0 like a rock and 3-5 secs later it climbs back up to 12.7 and sits around there.
If I get off the clutch easy and hold the throttle a touch and dont let it rev down like a stone, it only drops to like 11.5 and instantly catches then goes right to 12.7 ish.
I think it has alot to do with my lightweight FW and the motor not seeing the load it thinks it should when it idles down. The same FW and my APR did the same sorta thing, dropped bellow idle bogged for a sec then took afew seconds to come back up and smooth. Jims VR with the light weight FW does the same thing. I am going to look at the load readouts a bit more and see if that sheds some light on it.
The driveability isnt bad, it doenst buck or shutter or anything. If its at idle I am parked, or about to be so it doesnt matter much… just a lot of wasted fuel, slow warm up times and dirty plugs/o2’s.
WOW, Mike. You do serious work! DAAAAAAAAAAAAMN. Well, hey, at least not like u lost control and crashed. You can always buy one more gear and put it back in there, right?
replacing drivability and smart thinking with this:
So now all I have to do is replace twisted/snapped axles. Or get some raxles at some point.
yeah good luck with all that…