i dont plan on cheaping out by any means… i want this to last. but if im going turbo i think i will just go with the sr.
Roast: yea the power antenna still works. everything works properly on this car! i kinda feel bad for modifying it… part of me wants to keep it as is, because there arnt many 240s like this one. and another part of me wants to change everything for a race car, which i want more than a collecters car…
a 240sx is not/never will be a collector car so don’t worry about it! If you don’t plan on cheaping out pick up a SR block or what not from any importer and build it from ground up. It will make it easier on you in the long run.
Plan b) You can just get an SR and run it till it dies and fix and continue.
You can always talk to Sasha on the boards who raced his S14 with an SR + bigger turbo and took 1st place in CTCC.
Man just do it and stop taking people’s advices. Do your research and don’t expect encourgement from SON. They like to diss and criticize everything and everybody.
KA vs SR… honestly… yes if done right the potential on the KA and powerband can be great, but are you willing to go that way? SR is a great motor, don’t expect low end, it’ll still cost you an arm and a leg in the long run, whatever… it’s a personal choice that no one can shuv down your throat. Go on ka-t.org or whatever and get your advices there for the kat build. SR could be cheaper actually for just 300whp maybe… maybe not… all things taken into account and reliability being key with any turbo setup…
With that turbo you should get good response for a time attack car most likely… a few guys ran that on autox setups in the states… well whatever… you don’t need alot of power in an s chassis, 300whp will satisfy you and be quite competitive… Sasha did it and you see he had an SR (high end more important on track)… whatever you want just do it and stop relying on people here… you’ll just feel bad and not achieve anything lol.
With the SR you can build it up to rev to like 9000rpm, everything costs, costs to play… and you’ll get therefore tons of power and powerband.
Hell you could even do something like that with a CA18DET… so many options…
Just research and do it… then show it so more mouths will remain quiet with the criticisms… and do it for yourself who cares what people say.
is there anyone on here that has a KA-T that didnt blow up?
as far as i know it is just DFJ… i thought Radek was in there too but apparently he went through a motor too?
not saying that it can’t be done, its just that no one is Ontario is good enough to do it… kinda like it’s very possible to rebuild an SR to be bullet proof and not leak oil, but no one in Ontario can do that either.
If i were you and i had that chassis…
But i’m not…
May as well do a build like Briggs’ s14 if you’re making this a caged TA car.
I had a KA-T but it wasn’t reliable, so I sold the setup. SR is the way to go if you want 300HP without alot of effort, but if your not limiting yourself to those two motors. Grab an RB, LS1 or LT1. I know one guy who was trying to sell his 400-500hp LT1 s13 coupe for 5g’s, i don’t know if he got rid of it yet, i can find out if anyone is interested.
cal-soy only got two correction to make on your little list that bothers me. Brand name overpriced jdm bolt in cage? Just get a real welded cage locally made. That shit is not worth it just so you can say you have ‘cusco’ parts. And stance coils? Yeah maybe, if you want better than megans, but there’s more cost-worthy options that aren’t ‘jdm’ and are better sometimes even cheaper hah.
KA-T has been used in autox and on track stateside it doesnt mean its not doable, just no one here has done it. Give the guy some slack.
RB is a heavy mofo, and the guys who have track cars with RBs are useless whores, youtube 200sx RB swapped lapping videos (UK and dutch guys), they suck. LT1 … no… just go LS, it sounds badass, but no. I’m not talking about guys who spend $$$$$$ on 2JZ swaps and what have you moving the motors meters back (exageration lol)… those are beyond the hopes and dreams of most of us.
Regardless of what you decide, we’re all glad that you own the car.
u can build a engine to do whatever u need it to do. sr or ka… it takes time and money thats all.
stance coils are a awsome coilover better then megan. if ams uses em they gotta be a decent set up…
http://stance-usa.com/sus/index.php?option=com_imagebrowser&Itemid=51
Dude are you kidding me?
for adjustable suspension arms. get bings multilinks and bings tc rods. local support hes got u covered on those parts … tie rods i wuld only recommend getting spl. only way to go 
roger240 wat coils are better in quality/price range? and what are you running? the stance coils are definitely more then enough for the track needs here in canada lol.
mmm lets see who uses em (stance) sasha, enjuku racing. just too small names thats all oh wait ams another small name in motor sports…
anyways ur car is cllllean. whatever u do to it good luck.
lol… just because someone uses them doesn’t make them super amazing and super great. Sure they may ‘work’ (to whatever extent that may be), but they may not be the greatest solution. Just like the cusco bolt in cage. Sure it may do something, but, why…
Koni, Bilstein, Ohlins, Motons, AST, Penske, uuuuuuh yeah the price will keep rising if I continue the list, but I’m sure people can afford the first two I mentioned, except most rather be “JDM” or have a brand name that’s popular with ‘drift people’.
I rather get koni yellows + GC than stances or megans or whatever.
I wouldnt refer to your suggestions as corrections, dont you think thats a rather provocative way to have phrased that statement?
Anyways, my train of thought behind the bolt in, is that its… bolt-in. Meaning you can take it in and you can take it out. My car is my summer DD and trackcar so i dont think a cage is in my best interest. I’ve heard lots of people having trouble insuring caged cars. A roll bar by cusco can be had for anywhere between 300-600 whether its from a shop or used. i personally think thats a pretty good buy. For peace of mind, especially knowing i have a rough and unrefined driving style.
I’m not even going to address your comment about megans over stances.
okok well the rest u listed are all above the same price for quality comparison. its alot more expensive. like ohlins. not everyone is baller, just need it to perform and serve the purpose…
i agree to u in the bolt in cage but maybe someone wuld like to unbolt it one day and daily drive the car? or sell it back out for daily usage? keeping stock interior? i dunno im bored.
ps … im bored at work. i am killing my time lol.
Hahah - just more useless information. STANCE is a US-based company dude. They may have Japan-based production but the company is not JDM…so you can stop with the JDM nonsense.
And as for Koni Yellows being a comparison to a complete coilover…you’re cheap, we get it.
Son240 Ignorance ftw.
A coilover is a coilover, just because its not shiny it doesn’t mean it’s not a coilover. GC kits are coilover conversions that utilize a modified body with a damper inside. How magical is that? It’s obviously not for “OMG I gotz a jdm car leme pimp it up y0” type people because it actually takes effort to put together and is not off the shelf, not hard if you do your research but I guess not for son240.
Koni yellow dampers can handle 8kg/mm springs just fine, more than enough for the s chassis btw. I doubt most require 10kg/mm or 12kg/mm springrates since they won’t run R comps. Furthermore, springrates aside, the dampening of these things vs most of the Japanese/Chinese/Taiwanese shit dampers that may not do as much as one would really think. Koni yellows are a great entry setup imho, unless you want to pay 2000+ for something worthwhile (and still not Japanese/Chinese/Taiwanese/Mexican or what have you).
Stupid people who think ‘koni yellows are too soft yooo’ and then run D2s don’t realize what dampers are suppose to do.
So whatever, it’s like beating a dead body on son240, everyone thinks they are the shit and talk shit. Just because you haven’t heard of it, doesn’t mean son240 can bash it and talk shit with half assed half truths.
Hardly, its just A_Ahmed misinformed forthelose.
LOL, I’m sure I’m misinformed and you are not. Probably don’t understand half the shit I briefly mentioned in either post. Typical son240 trash talking, just because you don’t understand it or have heard of it, you make fun.
And just for the record, guys who race more than mark’s track days on son240 with d2, megan and stance coilovers… they run Koni yellows and GC coilover conversions successfully in both autox and road racing … and they actually compete and do well! I don’t hear stance coilovers being used on NASA or SCCA forums that often BUT HEY!
Whatever, like I said, it’s like beating a dead horse, it just doesn’t penetrate this audience.
Whatever you know what, I let you win Keep talking.
as far as coilovers go im completely happy with the stance coilovers, i have heard lots of good things, not just from this forum but from nico, zilvia and ka-t.
thanks for some of the responses! i have gotten somewhat of a better idea of where im gunna go with this.
as far as sr goes. im looking for a very detailed writeup on the sr… like a manual with all torque specs ect… anyone know where i could buy one (if there is one) or a good write up on the internet i have looked, but i usually suck at finding things on the net.