Im thinking of getting the black factory looking ones and leaving them black. I think theyd look decent with all the other black trim on the truck.
The only way to fix rust is to get rid of it…Replace the rusted panels fenders, quarters,rockers, door skins ect… are all avalable after market… If you plan on keeping it it is the only way. If you plan on getting rid of it… mud it and dump it…Bill
horrible advice, not to mention the fact that it’s sort of a fucked up way to screw the next owner over.
yep, the old cave N pave!
welcome to 75% of the northeast “body shops”. If CRC in its new location was going to do body repair work I wouldnt even be offering cheap rust repair options like grind N fill’s. I used to spend alot of time explaining to the customers why it isnt a good idea and that their $500 bill now will come right back through in 2 week, 2 months or 2 years depending on their luck and luck alone, then they will realize why the proper job costs $900 instead of $500. And all it takes is some arrogant prick customer who doesnt listen, is a cheap fuck and runs his mouth “Man CRC cant even fix a simple rust problem, they ripped me off, cant do anything right…” fuck that.
Want to know why that cheap job happens all the time, and is probably what PJB’s buddy did to him… Based on my personal (and i dont fancy myself a body guy) times.
Civic rear 1/4 cancer fix:
Grind 5min, skim with filler 5min, block 20min, spot prime 10min, block10 min, base 30min, clear 30min: total labor could be done in 1.5hrs. $500 invoice $333/hr
Cut out rust 20min+, template for patch 10min+, form patch 40min-Xhours, weld in patch 30min-Xhours, grind and hammer n dolly to stretch the metal 30min-hours, seal back side 10min+, filler 30min+, block 50min-hours, prime 10min, base 30min, clear 30min: 4.56hrs VERY CONSERVITIVLY THINKING $900 invoice $197/hr
And if you dont do the same cars, same panels, day in and day out you arent going to be production fast so if you give a lick of shit about your quality and long term results your not rushing any step.
i know that proper body work is expensive but im a firm believer in doing something right the first time regardless of the cost, whether it’s on a vehicle i plan on keeping or selling, and if i were to buy a car that wasn’t a $1000 beater and shit has hacked together on it i would be pissed. it is just unfortunate that a good amount of people are content with improper repairs just to cover up an issue, the OP is selling a lancer or evo IIRC and my guess is he will be getting good money for it, so in his case i would not consider packing bondo into a rotted area an option.
My evo is long gone and wasnt rusted, Im looking into purchasing a car that needs some rust repair but I made this thread to see exactly how much Id be getting into. The car is a good deal IMO but I wanted to make sure its a good enough deal to justify the money Id need to spend to fix it properly. Im not cheap I just dont want to end up spending more than if I just kept searching for a rust free example 
based on that statement, If it had rust in one spot it has others lurking in areas you cannot see. Can it be fixed? sure absolutely. If the price is right and it only takes a rust repair to fix the car then dont worry about it, scoop it up and go from there.
This is a car I restored a few years back.
looks pretty solid right?
well this is after I dug into it and fixed it CORRECTLY. Not grind and fill.
and about 8 months and a couple tens of thousands of dollars later.
Are you kidding me??? have you ever bought a used vehicle???Trust Me it is not the way I do it I never sell cars I trade them… If you only knew what your dealer did to sell a car you would shit yourself…Have you ever really looked at cars on a dealers lot…I have 2 friends in the body business and you would be shocked at the rust that they are cutting and mudding even on 2009 vehicles for the dealers… Trucks are the worst…Thats why I only buy new Vehicles…Bill
Krazy Kid you are 100% right you get what you pay for… Some people are just as dumb as ass…Bondo will only last a short time even a patch if not done right will only last about the same…Thats why if you replace the panel it is the only way to get a long term fix…But as you say the cheap fucks would rather do it the cheap way and cry like a little bitch:’( when it doesnt last.as with anything…Been there and heard it all…Bill
:facepalm
im glad you know ins and outs of how each dealer in the world runs there lot lol…
not once since ive been doing this have I EVER bondo’d anything, and I sell CHEAP vehicles…
whether a $2,000 hyundai/explorer or a $15,000 bmw, my guys cut and weld patches.
Love4boost, That is what I am talking about…How long is a patch going to last???So you cut out the rust hole and patch it 3 month later it starts rusting just to the left or right of the patch…If rust came through on a fender in one spot the whole fender is the same age so there is rust there it just hasnt come through yet…Then you weld in a patch and the heat from welding speeds up the process of rust…And by the way if you are patching the rust there is bondo/filler in the repair there has to be…Again the only way to get rid of rust is to replace the panel…So you are no better than the rest,That is the way they all do it PATCH…any body man will tell you it wont last…But as with all dealers the game is to get it sold…And dont even try to tell me your not that way…Money is why your there fix it cheap sell it high…It is the way it is…The nature of the beast…Im not saying your wrong its just business…Right or wrong…Bill
popcorn
Because there is a rust spot on say 1” of a panel, and the panel is say an entire door skin that’s 18.85 years old, doesn’t mean the entire door is magically rusting out without you knowing till it’s too late. Rust starts from a defect in the finish that allows impurities access to unprotected metal, simple as that. It takes an awful long time for oxygen to wick into a sealed surface unless the surface is defective. I have worked on cars that had bubbly rotted out shit metal, and 2 inches away from that is paint over perfectly good metal that if the surface is unaffected (and the rot didn’t steam roll over the good metal) it would never be a problem.
Patches are perfectly good and will/can outlast the rest of the car when constructed and carried out properly. I am talking by metal shapers, not crash bang repair men. Making patches and full panels for cars that zero replacements exist for. Those same people could form a replacement cab corner for a 2009 ram if need be to do a crash bang repair and install it that will stand the test of time… where as a run of the mill crash/banger can’t do the panel fab AND repair like the metal shaper. Both get the job done, one is done way better.
Heat doesn’t speed up rust.
There doesn’t have to be filler/bondo for a patch job. See metal shaper VS crash bang repair man.
Above, I am not talking about running a dealer/a body shop/chop shop/scammer shop… I am talking the actual work involved with doing a proper repair. Hours, time, money, profit margin, etc removed from the equation. Now, as a “body man”, I will tell you a repair done by joe bob body man with a LKQ patch panel, a mig gun, a grinder and a bondo spreader like daves doing, like CRC did for some jobs, and like 99% of the “body shops” around here do for profitable work that is affordable to the ave joe driver, those repairs could last a month, or till the day that car is crushed. It is ALL in the hands of the laborer, when completing that INADIQUATE repair. Until the the TIG or gas torch, the hammers and dollies, the shrinker/stretchers, the English wheels, the slip rollers, the bead rollers, the planishing hammers, the shrinking disks, the cut off wheels to grind the welds (not grinding disks), the files, the sanding disks, ………………… come out and are all used effectively any other repair is inadequate when it comes to a 100% proper and potentially lifetime repair job. That work is timeless, there are millions of cars out that were repaired/customized in that way, the metal shaper way NOT the maaco way, done 80 years ago that have not and will not see rust come back/start in the next 20 years. I am here to argue the fundamental repair not the reason for the procedure set used to put paint infront of a customers eyes.
holy shit this thread is getting pathetic.
pro-tech = skidmark in 30 years
So the only recommendation in here so far is Eric, anyone second that or have any other suggestions? New rear panels are $400/ea from OE.
either eric or elmos autobody in scotia
did you check lkq (keystone) for a price?
its a honda, they dont make um for that car. OEM only.
or get a hold of this old guy he can make a patch that will outlast the entire car.
Looks legit!