Deal fell through on new car so i ended up having to get this fixed. Price adjusted accordingly.
$850 takes it
The motor still runs strong, there are so many new parts on this car, one could easily part the new stuff, sell the motor, and then scrap the rest and make well over $500.
PICTURES UP!
Here’s the details:
1995 Honda Civic LX 4 door
Flat black
5 speed manual. Clutch doesn’t slip one bit, but apparently is an aftermarket clutch and does chatter a little…is very grabby.
I purchased this car 2 and a half years ago from another board member…i forget his name/username, but he had a blue audi s4 and this was his winter beater before me. Apparently this is the car a user that goes by “DeathProof” was building, if i remember correctly.
Car was swapped with a D16 V-tec motor out of a similar year EX trim civic.
When this car was being “built,” the builder stripped most the carpeting out (aside from floormats) as well as the rear doors’ power window/lock motors. The front power windows and locks work just fine, as well as power mirrors.
About 204K on the body, and if i was informed correctly when i purchased the car, that sould mean about 140K on the motor.
This car has started for me EVERY time i’ve turned the key, never once leaving me stranded…i love hondas. Of course it burns some oil…but look on the plus side, top it off once a month if not less, and it’ll ALWAYS be running with fresh oil!
I trusted this thing to take me to Connecticut, past NYC to Philly, and back here to Buffalo all in one weekend…and the only time i had to take care of a problem was on the way back home from Philly when it started to overheat…was low on coolant due to the original radiator leaking, topped it off…no problems the rest of the way home.
New parts:
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Radiator/upper radiator hose (within past 8 months)
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Fuel tank hangers (within past 5 months)
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Front rotors/pads (within past year)
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Muffler (within past year)
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Spark plugs and wires (within past year)
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Clutch slave cylinder (within past 2 years)
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Clutch master cylinder (within past 2 years)
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O2 sensor (within past 2 years)
I’m probably forgetting some stuff, so i’ll be updating this i’m sure.
You can take your hands off the wheel at 80mph (not recommended), and it’ll go perfectly straight for you. Still gets 30+mpg on average. Vtec works…siqqq.
CD player works great, no antenna ever hooked up so no radio reception, but that’s an easy job. I personally never listen to the radio, so never bothered with it…only listen to CDs.
The bad:
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It’s a 15 year old buffalo car…of course it’s rusty. All the corners are rusty…and the driver side sideskirt got so rusty that the plastic sideskirt cover fell off, but i still have it…just never cared to zip tie it back into place. I’m sure a buyer could figure something out with it, or if it’ll help the sale, i’ll find a way to secure it back in place. It started to rust a bit through the driver side rear floor, and this got a bit scary because the rear left corner of the driver seat…the seat mount itself was starting to sag through a bit, so my dad and i put in 2 fresh 1/8" thick steel plates under that segment of the seat…so you have a fresh 1/4" of steel floor keeping you from falling through now.
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The fuse that controls the dash lights and nighttime running lights blew, replaced it…and the new fuse wouldn’t stay in the fuse box, just kept falling out. Tried different ways of securing it in there, and nothing worked, i think the wiring behind the fuse within the fuse box came jarred loose from so many times putting in and taking out the fuse. So to avoid all that, i just ran a line right from the battery to the lights, with a switch and fuse in place on my own. I’ll picture this later too when i get around to taking pictures.
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I don’t know if it’s a vacuum leak or what, but on cold starts, the car will idle high (about 2k rpms) for a bit, then surge a little between 1k and 2k rpms, until it starts to warm up…then the idle evens out and she purrs like a kitten.
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There appears to be no outside moulding around the windshield…but the car does stay dry on the inside, the only downside to this is that the lacking moulding isn’t pretty. But let’s face it…you’re not buying this car because it’s a looker to begin with.
The inspection will be up in February, but i WILL have it inspected for the buyer prior to sale. This car will pass inspection just fine, especially if you know someone that does inspections
And unless i can borrow another car from a friend/family member, i will not be able to allow this to be sold until the weekend of the 11th since that’s when i’ll be going to pick up my new car.
PM or text me with questions, as i’m sure there’s a bunch of things i’m forgetting since this all kinda just fell into my lap pretty fast recently…so i’ll be updating this as i remember things worth mentioning.
Andy - (716) 949-1458.