Tom, PM me Bruce Perry’s contact info.
boardjnky4 , if you are handy with the wrench, you can do this no problem. The key is double checking (and in my case quadruple checking) your measurements. I was taking measurements with the tire on as well as without (with the rotor snugged with lugnuts) and constantly comapring the two as far as the camber angle was concerned. The minimum you need is a T-square, right angle, a protractor, a level, and a tape measure. Having four jackstands and some string helps too. Just take your time and don’t rush. Make slow adjustments and check as you go. Nothing too drastic. You laso need to account for camber as it changes when the car is loaded. Depending on your car, you may need to take the wheel off to make your adjustments. In my case, I had to calculate and compensate the difference between setting the camber with the wheel off. Then I checked it multiple times with the wheel on and on the ground.
This job would have been much more difficult if I had to really worry about caster. Most of the new cars have caster set from the factory, and it isn’t adjustable. I have some caster dial in, but I decided not to mess to much with it. I kept it in a safe range.
Yeah, I pretty much did everything stated. Level floor, already decided ride height, etc. etc.
The only thing I didn’t have was scales for corner weighting. I’m too po’ 
Maybe next year with the new tires and race rubber, I’ll get it cornerweighted before the season.
I also couldn’t put myself in the car because, well, then who was going to do the alignment? I realize that having me in the driver’s seat would be better. If I can find some excess junk that weighs what I way, I’ll stuff it in the front seat for the next time I do it