i think a lot of people are getting these values BACKWARDS !!!
1/4 (4/16ths) IS BIGGER THAN 3/16ths!!!
ftr, i would go with the free
Is it the same wall thickness on each of the two sizes?
not me
I passed 3rd grade math
"Master is 3/16.
Calipers are 1/8npt
Either way i am going to need adapters."
You have a “bottle neck” at each end.(3/16 and 1/8)
I’d go with the free 1/4" ss. Stainless is forever…sometimes. I didn’t realize you were doing a full custom build and you’d only need two adapters. That’s not so bad. Like I said, line size has little to do with pedal feel. If you went with a larger bore MC the amount of effort required to stop the car would be more, but the pedal would travel less. A smaller bore MC would require less effort but there would be more pedal travel. If you could see inside the brake lines while the pedal was being actuated, the fluid has to travel farther down the line in a smaller tube, but the amount of volume passing through a plane through the tubing is the same in either case.
One thing that i think you guys are missing…
I could run 3/16" lines or 3/4" line, the master cylinder is not going to be required to displace any more fluid.
the only difference is the amount of area that the fluid in the line can act upon, radially.
well, 1/8 sch 40 Pipe has an ID of .269
.035 wall seamless SS 316 is $2.02/ft.
We are not talking about substantial savings.
Fittings could cost as much as the tubing.
Fittings, with the exception of the master cylinder attachment, are also free if i use 1/4"
I can’t believe we have 2 pages and nobody’s recommended cross drilled lines for better cooling, lol…
I can’t see why 1/4" wouldn’t work, it just would never make sense for 99.999% of people because it should cost more and probably has not real benefit.
Well you can buy 1/4 stainless braided lines from a zillion stores. I just wasn’t sure if it was going to hurt me…
also: don’t forget to install an in cabin brake bias adjuster since you’re going all out.
I know I should… They’re not very expensive, either…
The only thing that worries me is how hard it is to set up…
Why would it be any harder to set up than say setting up a rb in an E30?
Just do it.
Go with free and install the bias, you want this car to be a contender don’t you?
100% front 0% rear, ditch the rear brakes for weight redux!!
0% front, 100% rear, drifter for life!!
0% 0% fred Flintstones stylez!
Yeah, I decided to use the 1/4" lines. We just have so much scrap 1/4" AN stuff that I can’t see spending the 200 bucks or whatever I’d wind up paying for the -3 stuff.
if you don’t run the bias right away, still run the line up into the cabin and out so you can add later without rebuilding lines.
I’d NOT use the stainless. I can’t think of anything better going to it, Your not going have have a rust problem with the car. It’s heavier then a normal coated, or soft treated steel line. But the main this is its a bitch to work with building a system on a car. I’ve built a few from scratch, and steel is so much easier to work with. Everything in a bitch from doing a normal brake line double flair,a bubble/euro flair, 37* B nut, cutting the lines, bending the lines, making adjustment bends. It kills your tubing tooling faster.
It’s a harder material so the seats have to be perfect, the chances off fixing a imperfect leaking seat, by tightening it up a little more in the flair dies, to tightening up the fitting is nowhere as forgiving as steel. What kind of tools do you have access to for working with the stainless lines.
I would just use normal brass fittings and steel lines for all the hard lines, easy to work with. And parts are easy to get local at any parts store, and anytime down the road for repairs.
For the brake bias contoral just get the summit $25 one, adjust from 25% to 57% I believe. So depending on what tires you run, you just go to a empty parking lot. See whats going on, and set it up.
Get a line lock too 