You want to talk enclosures, then let’s start talking Folded Horns and Transmission Line design theory… Wanna talk about some output gain!!! LOL
NE Ways, back on topic…
If you’re on a budget get what you can afford to start out with. We all started with crap before we had $$ and the knowledge as well as our tastes in audio developed.
The “$120 subs that will blow your socks off” are going to be crap, bottom line. Get the basic speakers and HU for now, then look into saving for a decent subwoofer and amp; something like a Kicker L5/7 or Rockford Fosgate.
There are a lot of people here who will say that everything is crap besides big $$ stuff. Do what you can afford, do the research into brands, quality, reviews, etc before jumping into anything, “deal” or “no deal”.
I can understand that, I plan to take a long look at the $120 subs an amp before deciding to spend about half as much as they are supposed to cost. Like I said, I don’t need something to piss off my WASP neighbors, I just need something that will let me blast my lame screamo and prog rock while driving, but still enjoy some music quality
shit i didnt even realize i said ported.
on that note, do think he is going to spend time to get a custom bandpass for his prizm?? i mean really??
i stick to what ive used and ben taught and seen on the meteres.
ya’ll can do what ever you want
im pretty sure there is a difference between all three
but disregared everything i said
im a dumbass
nyspeed is siqq
They are the same thing; Vented just seems to be the “slang” term for a slot-ported enclosure vs a conventional round ported enclosure.
The both follow the same formulas when it comes to designing them as well as perform almost the same in application. There are minor differences when you get down deep into the design with port flaring and port-noise just due to the differences in shape of the port, but 99% they are the same.
in all honesty, i don’t think u’d really need a sub in that car. if u put the money u’d originally spend on subs, and put that into the 4 speakers inside the car, u will have a much more enjoyable audio experience and the neighbors will thank you for it. there’s a difference between loud and clarity and “blow my ears off” for $120 is almost guaranteed to sound like shit.
here’s a quick affordable list for an option w/ out a subwoofer…
4 of those for $125.98
this if you have an ipod or are interested in expanding into satelite radio or add a subwoofer someday. $114.99
total $240.97 +shipping and w/e wiring harness and dash kit’s u need. installation if you can’t do it yourself will cost you a 6 pack of beer and a pizza for most of the guys on this board:D
Buy a “Infinity Basslink 2” off ebay and you will be happy. It has a built in amp. Servo feedback loop so that it WONT SOUND LIKE SHIT if you turn it up too high.
All the other bass recommendations are really way more then you seem to be looking for… especially in a little Prism. The Basslink is simple and sounds very good… its not just a muddy boom boom from behind.
Get a high power head unit 50x4 or something… Alipine, Kenwood, Pioneer, whatever you like.
Replace the door speakers with any name brand units and you will be happy.
Buy everything used on ebay. You will get a lot more for your money.
ok heres a question for you guys, my radio is the larger than normal size, double-din i think its called, will any larger size radio fit like the pioneer listed below? or are there different versions of the larger size?
i was looking at a kit today but it didn’t list the 01 chevy prizm on the back, it had the 97 geo prizm listed as well as the 97 corolla, will it still fit or have things changed since 97?
Its a double-din car. In any case, we ended up building our own dash kit out of some wood in my dad’s work shop, it fits perfectly with the pioneer head I bought and looks great, i’ll take some pictures and put them in the DIY section when I get around to it.