I don’t think that oil sampling will really do anything for you. No offence but its for guys the need somthing easy to do. So they can talk, and be “into cars” with others. That dosnt mean oil dosnt matter, it most deffenatly dose.
But that data is not practical really, for 99% that do it… ok I had 2.5% more lead…thats bad?
Is that really gona matter to the final death of the motor?
DYI guy now dose what with the info? Look on “bob the oil guy?” and change to a differnt brand oil fad.
But a performance world veiw,
over rev’ing
lack of clean/freash oil (general maintenance)
lack of proper oil
heat
bad tunning
WILL remove engine life 100x more then a " oil sample analyzed by blackstone labs" will ever do for you. If your hitting your stock LS1 with a 150+ shot, 550+ boosted, or going to 6600+ on a cam’d setup. Just changing your oil more ofter will be way better for your money, and the motor. And just cut the filter open and look for trash is you suspect. Other wise its no practical.
well, oddly enough… car ran great last night on the ride home… along with the ride in today, however it was running rough at idle (although, the idle wasn’t really jumping around).
this morning though, when I went to start the car, it was making a god awful whining that got louder with the RPM’s… and after a few mins on the road, pretty much went away. I tried listening to where it was coming from and it sounds like it’s internal… not really coming from one side or the other.
I’m thinking that it’s the waterpump. I’m gonna remove the belt to see if it goes away and it it does, I’m gonna take it into the dealership asap and have them look at it. It should be covered under the powertrain warrenty
it’s unreal how many things broke on this pos already
yup, this weekend I plan on doing it providing I’m not working.
I may drop it off at the dealership tonight and see if they can find it. Just wish I knew a tech there… I hate having people that I don’t know (or someone I know can’t couch for) work on my cars :\
A guy did the same thing you did to a Mini at an autocross this year. Instant blown motor, ended up buying an entire new motor.
Near redline in 2nd then shift to first will break lots of stuff on lots of cars.
My GTO hasn’t been perfect, but most of the stuff has been minor.
Suede peeled on the passengers side door. A good dealer would have fixed it in one trip, Culligan took 3 and only fixed it after I got so mad at the service manager he could tell his options were replace the door panel or get stabbed in the eye :). Most of the blame goes to Culligan.
Belt squeak at 5000 miles. Culligan replaced under warranty.
Passengers side vanity mirror door wouldn’t stay closed when sun shade was down. Culligan replaced under warranty.
Minor diff whine at 4000 miles at constant speed between 48 and 52. Much quieter now, enough that I’m not concerned. I plan on upgrading the stock diff soon anyway.
Paint chipped/peeled off door handle surround. Culligan repainted under warranty, looks perfect.
Electrical gremlin that caused the radio to shut off very rarely when turning sharp. Culligan couldn’t reproduce. Found my battery wasn’t 100% secure, hasn’t happened since I locked it down.
The big one is and remains to be strut rub. GM refuses to do anything but adjust the alignment, which fixed the rub but leaves me with a less than ideal alignment for handling. NHTSA is investigating, but I think I’m just going to spend the grand in aftermarket Pedders stuff and end up with a much better handling GTO that doesn’t have strut rub. You can get just the parts to fix strut rub for <$300.
So considering I drive the piss out of it, it’s been pretty good for a DD with 400 stock HP.
ya take the belt off.
might be the WP, but also some locals have had problems with alternator internals not liking 7K+ rpms. :snky:
Theres acutely a service bulletin on C6 ZO6s doing this currently, (not a recall just a GM notice) you shouldn’t have to worry about that being a normal problem tho.:lol:
not sure yet… tired getting ahold of someone at don davis but they never called me back :tdown:
now I’m not even sure if that’s the route I’m going to take. The car ran like complete shit on the ride home today. I think I’m going to buy a beater POS car to drive and take the gto off the road until next season and fix all the shit wrong with it in the mean time :tdown:
I’m ready to just set this piece of garbage on fire
Whats so wrong with it that isn’t covered under wart? Assuming you still have one. Things usually go wrong on cars off and on, what other problems are you having? If you want I know a kid with a 2.5rs that would trade u his car plus $$$ for the goat
well, it’s a combination of things. Since I got it, I’ve had to replace the brakes (albeit, the fronts didn’t really need it), the tires, the ebrake lever broke, the kick panel plastic cover cracked, my steering wheel is peeling (the painted spokes), the light covers on the door sills fell off, the tie rod end is shot, my ac pump or pulley (not sure which one yet) is making a ton of noise and now the water pump sounds like it’s also going. Not only that, but the wheels are flaking from corosion, my tires are rubbing on the struts, the drivers side fog lamp keeps fogging up and the radius rod bushings need to be changed… (I’m sure there is more, just all I can think of off the top of my head)
like I said… it’s just been one thing after another. Had I known that it was going to be this much of a pita, I honestly would of picked up an older fbod or mustang, ect. in cash and wrenched on it. I bought the car with the impression that it would be a reliable and quick DD… I mean, it’s only a few years old and only has 33K miles on it.
I drove my 01 mustang gt pretty hard and other than a set of tires and normal maintainence, I never had a problem with it in the 20K miles I owned it. The car still has a transferable powertrain warrenty but the bumper to bumper ran out 2 months ago