I have received some questions about a switch panel I made for my '99 GAGT a few years ago. This isn’t a full step by step build but it should show you what went into building this and will hopefully guide you if you choose to build one yourself.
Here is a list of things I needed specifically for the Grand Am:
- Radio Trim Bezel (with aux Cassette Player)
- Remote Cassette Player (from either a Grand Am or possibly Grand Prix)
- 2 nut-plates and 2 screws for the dash
What I used in the box:
- 7 T1 3/4 Blue LEDs with 7 475 ohm resistors (Run each resistor in series with each LED but run each string in parallel)
- 9 pin Molex connector and plug from Radioshack
- 5 Blue LED rocker switches
- Misc terminals and wire
- Handful of 4-40 screws, washers, nuts, Loctitie, etc…
Building the switch box:
NOTE: I recommend using Loctite or lock washers to mount the brackets so the will not shake loose. Trust me, they will.
You can use just the box to hold wiring and switches if you wish. I got a little more creative and decided to back light my panel. You need to modify the cassette housing by removing all the guts. Save the two side brackets and the rear circuit board that connects from one side to the other with the tabs and a screw (you will see what I mean). Attach the two side brackets to the housing (You may need to create your own holes). You need to make some kind of circuit board or rig something up to hold your LEDs. I made an actual circuit board that I soldered 7 blue LEDs to (Yes the panel lights up). You can use the Rear PCB for a template to make your own. If you are lucky enough to have access to a PCB Router than you can make you own like me or drill some holes in plastic, use epoxy, solder wires, etc… what ever you need to use. Keep in mind that you will need to run wires to the switches so do not place the LEDs where a shadow can be made from the routed wires.
Building the cover plate:
There are many options. Pick what works for you. I am a little more fortunate where I work and I have access to lasers.
I used a 1/8" thick piece of clear acrylic. I cut it out to match the opening on the cassette player as well as the rectangular openings for the switches. The 1/8" seems to be the perfect size to fill the gap between the housing and the trim bezel when installed.
I then sand blasted the front face of the panel. Then I painted it with a few coats of White paint and then a few coats of Black paint. This builds a thickness to the paint for lasing. After the paint cured I laser etched the legend I created to exposed the white paint. This way when you shine the light on the back of the panel the white paint will shine which ever color you chose for backlight. Also, the White on Black makes it stand out during the day. You could get fancy with airbrushing on the white or a different top color.
Assembly of the Box:
Attach all the switches to the cover plate before installing the wiring. If you use Spade terminals rather than soldering the wires you can disassemble the front panel if you need to. Connect the wires from the switches to the connector on the back of the housing (I made a small panel to hold the Molex connector to the housing. This makes the Box a plug and play item).
If you choose to back light your cover plate you can have a 2 pin connector on the housing as well. You need a 12V source and GND. For a 12V I used the dimming line for the original backlight in the factory harness (brown wire). This taps into the cars circuit so you can not only turn the backlight on when you turn on you head lights. But, you can also dim the LEDs the same as the whole dash. Pretty slick huh? Depending on which LEDs you use you may want to adjust the current. I used 6000 mcd T1 3/4 LEDs with 475 ohm resistors. This worked fairly well for the brightness but my LEDs are Blue. Try one value of resistor and see what it looks like. If you don’t like the brightness change the resistance. Remember, LEDs are current driven. Based on Color the brightness may not match perfectly depending on the resistor. Trial and error or pick something and get used to it.
Installation:
Be sure to remove the rubber stoppers off of the studs on the old trim bezel and install them on the new bezel if the new one is missing them. The studs may scratch your nice new panel.
Install the two nut-plates in the square holes just underneath the HVAC unit mounted in the dash. These will hold the Box in place.
Install your Box using 2 panel screws.
TIP: If you did not get a cassette box with foam on the bottom you may want to get some. Over time the bracket holding the box can bend downward. This may cause the plastic bezel underneath to come up and hit the box making an annoying sound. The foam will prevent that. Or brace the back of the box to the dash like I did with a screw strap.
Finally plug back in the Cigarette Lighter, Hazards, Trac Switch, and all the new wiring and install the new trim bezel and Key Guard.
When you are all done people swear it is factory. Ha!
If you have any other question please feel free to PM me. I will tell you how