i will vouch for bill on this one :snky:
Bill, if you are using mild or aluminized steel anywhere you are cheaping out 
Good luck with your build
you’re welcome to borrow my old college textbook…
Fundamentals of Heat and Mass Transfer:
Lafengas is my go-to engineer, he makes planes fly 
:tup:
Ya i have my old college books too from those classes, but they are barried somewhere and u cant have them, i’m too lazy to pull them out
thanks for the offers guys, but its really no big deal. i was just looking for something quick and easy to skim… with pictures. lol. im pretty set on how my setup is going to be…
i dont know why using mild, in sections, that will be coated and is on a good weather car is cheaping out. it will last long time, easy, everything will be taken care of. charge piping is a lot of aluminum, and a little bit of undecided. its not always about buying all the most expensive stuff. with this build, im putting together what i <i>need</i> to make this setup work well. saved money on the mild, but you can bet your ass it will work just as well as if it were SS. saved money on my FMIC, but history has shown, my last setup had upon the LOWEST IATs and VERY minimal psi drop. that goes for 98% of the ls1 community as well. saved A LOT, A LOT of money and frustration going with truck manifolds instead of making tubular headers. they are far past proven to make among the highest HP in setups, work flawlessly, flow very well, hold up to a BIG beating, great fitment, etc.
everything else is top notch. sometimes i look for better deals, yeah, but why not. i've saved lots of money buying the SAME stuff from less expensive places. a lot of these big name companies slap a HUGE brand name tax on their stuff. it's amazing. what it comes down to is, the end product will tell the story. both visually and the performance aspect.
lastly, here are some money bag builds. each of these have mild hot sides. most are on the verge of or are running 8’s. they were EASILY $12k+ builds JUST for the turbo setup from big name shops that are top notch. some are street driven. the owner of the green one DAILY DROVE that car to work for 3 months. rain, storm, sun, whatever. these are just a couple that i found in about 45 seconds
(1100+rwhp through glide, old 370)
(900+rwhp through auto, lot more boost)
(still in building stage. sold off gt47-88 for a manly turbo)
im not 100%, but i think this one is
(1000+rwhp through auto)
same for this
(1000+rwhp through auto)
(1100+rwhp through M6, small ass turbos)
and the list goes on
Those pics make me want one 
GL with your build
Those tubular manifolds are sexy though too bad those 4-1 v band collectors are about $400 each from burns-stainless
I don’t think anyone is saying that you are ghetto rigging…
if you’re going to do it “right” (and there are more then a few ways to quantify that), then you’d be spending alot more money on parts as well as R&D.
See the discussion from a few weeks ago regarding the differences between a quality IC (garrett) versus the ebay / china / india / USA knock offs that cost a third the price.
There are small differences in the units, but if you’re doing it “right” then you are going to spend the $$$ for those small differences so that you can maximize the combo.
Just because something has been proven dozens of times to make 1XXX whp, doesn’t mean that it is the most efficient way to do it… just the most popular - usually for the price / performance ratio.
FWIW. $0.02
that lime green box in the backround of the one pic is tits
lets just put it this way. for what im doing with the car, the stuff im using is more than enough for the setup. the stuff shouldn’t fail, and should last a long time. of course there is always a better part. for what im doing, if something would be limiting my performance, i’d be moving to a better part. i will probably only use 35% of the setup’s potential. i have more fun putting it together than anything. the only part people can say i “cheaped out” on was the IC. but like i said, i will not be running honda boost levels, and they have always worked exceptionally for me. and if for some reason it doesnt work out well for me this time, i’d have no problem scrapping it to get the better product. everything else, turbo, wg, bov, ENGINE, fuel, trans, rear, ds, piping, coating, connections, etc etc etc etc is top notch. ive scrapped 2-3 hot parts designs for a better design, scrapped a few alternator designs, scrapped a less expensive v-band assembly (went with a vibrant which is a much better piece), and the list goes on. i refuse to get through this and say, “damn, i could have done that better.” its quite a bit of work, but when i start seeing results, it puts a big smile on my face
Bill your car was pleanty fast last year…
I know this is “technically OT” but whatever; how come you have to change it around??
I know, I know “i wanna go fast” lol
Good luck, and listen to Don =)
the really fast version goes:
crank walked, needed crank, couldn’t pass on cubes, turbo setup became inefficient with bigger cubes, sold kit for more than i bought it for, great hookups of engine parts, wanted to build my own setup, and here we are 
i hope to have most of the setup complete within 2-3weeks. like i said, i have fun building it. i really need to focus on building my engine now though. i have all my parts, just need to put it together
wurd! just make sure i get a ride this summer =)
good luck man :tup:
unless you are a professional racer, there’s no need to be that obsessed over all this stuff. street motors will never get to those kind of efficiency numbers where a slightly off pie cut or something will cost u a race.
if you’re really that interested, take some physics courses at ecc or something