Two graphite head gaskets, two hi-tech metal O-ring style rocker cover gaskets (valve cover gaskets; look like rubber not sure) and torque-to-yield head bolts.
While I can’t offer you up anything regarding the GT40p’s…I don’t understand your comment about needing a TF cam over the E303. THe E cam is a decent cam and can run into the low 12’s with your heads.
Since you are going NA now, and the heads are out, perhaps milling them to bump compression is worth looking into.
as for the tfs 1 cam … it performs the same as an e cam … just without the “hunting for idle problem” (25 year old technology)
keep the stock size valves … just get the heads freshened up and a valve job,and have whoevers doing them to install a TFS spring upgrade kit (summit has it for $133) so in the future you can run a cam up to 544 lift
Watch your piston to valve clearance …
on a side note … just run an X-cam … I have a proven combo that runs high 11’s with P’s and an X
Mike, regarding the cam I’ve read a lot of people got good gains with the TFS1 cam over the old ford alphabet cams.
The heads already have SVO rr’s and springs, but I’m just looking to put the coupe on the street to roll around town and have fun, not to break shit again lol.
The P heads have a smaller combustion chamber, 59cc, which is smaller than stock and the E7 heads so that bumps up compression a bit.
The P heads are very nice heads for the money. I had them on my Lincoln Mark VII which ran 14.3 @ 104 mph and it was 4000lbs.
As far as timing goes I’m not sure why you would need to retard it? Also bumping up the fuel pressure is a very bad way of tuning a car, you really need to get someone to tune it for you. Do yourself a favor and get a good set of ARP head bolts or studs, they are definitely worth the money.
I was reading an article about GT40p heads in 5.0 Mustangs and Fast Fords and it mentioned to retard the timing and bump up the fuel pressure to keep from detonation since these heads have a smaller combustion chamber than stock.