I just wanted everyone viewing this thread to know that I get out at 5 as well but I don’t want to look at your car so free bump for a solid deal.
my last sr had the huge greddy intercooler and 3" tanabe exhaust and only ran a 13.8 at 15-18 psi… i was running 2.5ish 60’ though… posi/welded would have helped a lot. i would def pay 2500 for that… except that its a red hatch, lol. coupes are the shit. that rust is a gimme if its from anywhere northern. and its not impossible to fix.
dont go any lower, unless you HAVE to, but cmon, you parents cant be that much of douche bags…
how many winters has it seen. in NY, i must specify.
frame rails are not such a big deal on these cars as everything is built together(frame and body are one) , thats a cheap fix.
yea but it doesnt look like there is any good steel to weld to… thats the problem with my u13, cross member frame rail, is complete ROTT, thus the name.
beyond repair, in a nut shell, looks like the same verdict here.
you can fix anything, whether or not its worth it is the factor, and that changes from person to person…
agreed. hmmm yu can box them and just weld farther back towards the rear of the car , it was a terrible design on the part of the japanese when they ran the water drains right down and around the frame rails.
yes the car would be a pretty easy fix but PM barber to make sure but im 99 percent sure this thing had been gone for a looonnnggg time
god, its just a straight frame rail that curves upward at the firewall
hell, get me the material and ill MAKE the damn patches, all you have to do is weld them in!
or man up and have subframe connectors made that curve upward in that section, and weld then to the floor, fixed AND added strength
Car has been sold a long time ago.
fuck i miss that car
wtf was the point of a 4month bump of a sold car