Autometer Boost Gauge mounted on A-pillar
Trust shift knob
Pioneer CD player
Cloth door panels/glove box (not the tweed stuff)
Factory HICAS body kit
5zigen FNO1RC’s with Falken Fk-452’s
17x8 F 225/45/17
17x9 R 245/40/17
18x8 msr 105’s with 225/35/18 aurora rubber.
CF hatch
CF hood
CF dash kit
tinted all the way round
clear front signals
black altezza tails custom tinted.
Sitting on ground control lowering springs
SR20DET Est. 50,0000 , 211xxx on body
HKS SSQV
Trust FMIC kit
Miata batter to clear intercooler piping
HKS down pipe
Tenabe exhaust (full 3 inch)
JDM speedo/tach(7500 rpm redline)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
300zx fuel filter
NGK BKR7ES-11 Spark plugs
Electric Rad Fans with temp sensor wired in
Greddy Turbo Timer
EPROM from autodream
Apex-I Rocker Arm Stoppers
Amsoil 15w40
Cooling Panel
Redline MT90 Tranny Fluid
Redline shockproof diff fluid
Factory V-LSD
HICAS completely removed (every line/solenoid)
Kazama HICAS lock bar
No abs
PBR Metal Master Pads Front and Rear
$10,000.
also have d2 coilovers, megan racing turbo mani and battle version rear upper control arms, not installed.
also come with complete spare motor, spun a bearing so needs re-build. but complete motor is still there with stock t25 turbo, basically everything for but the wiring harness.
just wondering.
in the FS add from the guy you got it from the engine had 89,000kms, and i thought this was the same engine with 40,000kms less lol.
good thing i read the whole post
ic. the f**kin one that was in the car didn’t even make it home. 3 hrs after owning the car, the rod bearing spun goin down the hwy, found out later the oil pressure sending wire was cut so it wouldn’t register witht the dumy light.
thanks. yeah there are alot more extras on the car this time too, but just bought a new truck and cannot aford insurance on both so unfortunatly its gotta go.
