FS: The Ultimate winter vehicle. 1986 Ford Bronco

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1

Give yourself an excuse to go out in every snow storm this year. Lock the front hubs and nothing will be able to stop you from getting to where your going, not snow banks, mailboxes, animals, nor small children.

1986 Ford Bronco
FI 5.0 V8 43,000 miles (AC Delco replacement engine with all paperwork and 30k mile warranty now up)
Manual locking hubs AWD
body lift
stiff rear shocks

I have a ton of receipts and paperwork for this truck that the original owner kept. Including for a remote starter, transmission service, all oil changes and other maintenance.

Since I purchased the truck I have:
replaced the windshield (cracked)
the steering gearbox (loose)
the brake booster (vac leak)
all 4 tires (cost me over $600)
front brake pads
and finally I have replaced the alternator and had the body mounts professionally welded as the thin metal had begun to rust.

Body condition: Damn good for an '86. rusted on the tailgate and just behind the drivers door. other areas of small surface rust but nothing terrible.

Engine condition: burns a little oil and has some drips when parked for a long period of time but runs strong.

Transmission: runs strong with no issues, 2, 4H, 4L all work well.

Tires: new

Passed inspection with no problems.

Issues/problems: rear window motor just died on me and the window drops as you hit bumps. currently looking for a replacement.

This is a picture when I bought it and does not show the new tires which are the same size:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Mafdark/P1010126-1.jpg?t=1224085144

i’ll get a new picture soon.

Price: $3,000 firm

If you don’t think this truck is worth it then move along. It’s low mileage and overall good condition make it worth $3,000 to certain people.

2

Not a bad looking truck. Good luck with the sale.

3

Is it an Auto or a manual? And could you get some interior and under the hood shots im interested it this truck.

4

It’s an auto. I’ll take lots of pics next week, I don’t have any right now.

5

I posted this up for sale a little too soon, while the mounts have been welded up, the wiring is a mess.

When the body of the truck dropped on its frame it shorted out some of the wiring. The shop fixing the truck up for me just told me it would be probably $500 for them to figure out and fix the wiring situation which would be over the budget I gave them.

So at this point, I am parting it out. If anyone is interested in anything or wants to buy the truck to fix them wiring themselves please send me a PM

6

so wait, the truck is just a roller? I dont understand why theres a huge wiring mess, can’t they just pull the old alternator out and throw in a new one?

7

I thought the same, apparently the first shop that had it cut a part of the harness and now the new shop can’t figure it out to rewire it.

So at this point it is a roller with an 42k mile engine that would run if the ignition could get power.

8

If this was a manual, this would be ballin’ as hell. Nice looking truck though, GLWS.

9

what are you looking to get for it now?

10

If only i had the room for another vehicle.

11

Since it would only really be another $500 (or less to do it yourselve) to get it worthy of being a daily driver… $2,000 as it sits.

That’s $1K less than I originally was asking for, since I just spent $$$ welding up the frame I won’t go lower.

12

Does it still start and drive and its just not charging?

Or will it not even start?

13

It has a new alternator and the engine had been tuned up before the short happened so there is no problem there.

It will not start because nothing has any power. Dash lights wont even come on.

14

dumb question, but where is it located?

15

Call me crazy, but did you think of checking every single fuse? Thats pretty easy to do. If you arent getting power anywhere that could be a likely cause. Also, for the hell of it make sure your ground cable didnt for some reason get ripped off the block or frame from the body moving around…

16

Like he said, they cut the harness, wires are all over the effing place, and just has to be re-wired

17

Main power comes directly from the battery to the chasis harness. cutting the altenator harness will not affect the dash or ignition getting power. So unless they just started cutting chasis harnesses for fun, it might be another cause.

18

True, I assumed when he said the “harness”, he implied the chasis harness, but It never crossed my mind to know the difference. good call

19

I can’t remember exactly, but I am pretty sure the wire to the alternator was the only one off the battery… maybe it split I dont know.

obviously its something screwy since the shop haven’t figured it out yet.

I should add this to the first post but I used this truck as a daily driver to and from school every day from September until March with no problems. I also got a few people roll down windows and ask what year it was or give me compliments on the condition.

20

Sounds like the main ign. wires inside the sc. Have you checked those?

BTW, nice Bronco. GLWS :tup: