im getting there i have 1/2 a paper so far
5v in 43k r = .581 (w) and .116 (I)
2 min edit :
w= e2/r
w=5 (2) /43k
w= .5841
i would need more time … i have not done this in like 3 years
You’re off by a factor of 1000 
Not enough info to solve. Fuzzy’s on the right track by getting another value.
justa4door you’re, um, somewhere in left field if you’ve got half a paper for (V1/R1)=(V2/R2)
I know there is a value missing to calc the output… but I can’t remember what it would be. 
Its pretty academic at this point anyways. 
Okay, I’m come up with at least some method of getting where we need to be I think.
R1 = MAT/IAT
R2 = Load at ECU
IT = Total load
VI = Input voltage (In this case 5)
VE = Voltage at ECU
IT (Amperage) = VI / (R1 + R2)
VE = VI - (R1 + IT)
The problem is we don’t know the value of R2.
To do that you will need to hook an ammeter up to determine the current load. Once you know the resistance of the MAT and current you can then find R2 by the following
R2 = (VI/IT) - R1
Cliffs: Hook an ammeter up in series, get a value with the key on engine off. Then get the resistance of the MAT at the same temp. You can use that to find the load at the ECU or at least close to it.
home run…:gotme:
i dont know where i was going
clamp ammeter suffice?
As long as it’s reasonably accurate, the more so the better.
should be, fluke, only like 3 yrs old.
if it’s reading -40 the sensor is doing anything. thats it’s default.
saved by the bell. whee another ford running.
Saved by the Pat, FTW.
Burnouts, coming soon to a lawn near you.
dont do burn outs… something will break.
lol. chain drive FTL.
Besides, aren’t you selling that nice concrete driveway anyways? :naughty:
where’s my custom title!!! teehee…
:thankyou:
teeheeeeee. i like it.
Can’t you calibrate the stock sensors under MS-I? I know you can in MS-II. If not I have the Ford bias resistors at the shop and a soldering iron ready