Really need to have my system checked out, and while I’m up for tackling a lot of projects, this one is completely foreign to me.
Guy that did my house is from Arcade but couldn’t hurt to ask. Hell, I drove up there. I didn’t know they had modern heating systems that far out. Aren’t you looking for a lumberjack?
Worth a shot, I suppose, although the budget is a little skinny for a setup like yours.
As far as the lumberjack thing goes, I’m good there, I own this shirt.
I’ll ask him. You may not need a new system but I don’t know the nature of the problem…Captain Vagueness.
In for results as I too am in the boiler club these days. LOL
I have a great boiler guy if ya still need one.
Lmk
PM/email/call with info please.
Thanks!
What is the issue?
I’ve never had anything but boilers…replaced a few with my dad and my own in my last house. They are a hell of a lot easier to work on than furnaces.
What is the nature of the problem?
Spill the beans. 
Sorry, crazy busy day yesterday.
So, we have very little heat output. Boiler pump working, no cavitation sounds. Windows, while older, are not completely shitty. Max temp in one of my lower units is about 60 degrees.
Temp gauge on the boiler is broken :-/
Haven’t checked the individual valves to see if they’re opening yet.
My suspicion, considering how every other thing in this place was mickey-moused together, is that it’s just not a robust enough system for this size place.
I checked with my guy last night and if your job was in the continental US he might’ve been able to help. He’s simply too busy right now.
I found it was tough to do/tell anything without a working tridicator. No way to balance your aquastats etc… You have to know what the water temp is breaking at and what your pressures are before anything else. If the thermostat is calling for heat and the circulating pump is going you have to wonder what temp that water is. Do you at least have a working pressure gauge?
Maybe a zone valve stuck mostly closed… My dad had the opposite problem in their house where it got stuck open and turned one room into a sauna.
If you turn off the heat in all but one zone at a time you might be able to isolate the valve as the problem.
There is always the touch test…is the supply pipe really hot or can you hold onto it for a while?
Since we’ve amassed a boiler crew here…what do you all set your cutoff temp at? It seems 180 is my sweet spot to keep things at 70 without short runs etc… I’ve been having to drain my one expansion tank once a month, I suspect there is a bad seal on the cap or the pressure regulator is putting water in when it’s not needed. Thoughts? /hijack
I think mine is set to 190 for making domestic hot water then it modulates depending on the outdoor air temp between I think 120 and 180 for heat…there is then a mixing valve that drops it down before going to the floors.
I think my old boiler was set to 180 as well…but I believe that was more of a function of it being cast iron and oil fired…had to keep it hot so the flue gases wouldn’t condense