Don't know...never dynoed it but look at it this way....a 350\350 hp, had flat tops, similar heads, a smaller cam, and manifolds. So my domed pistons should be good for 2 more points of compression, .030 over bore, heads ported about as far as I'd want to go, larger solid cam, and headers should be good for 50+ hp. I'm sure it more than that...
One of the dogs ate the floppy’s??? Is that the one?
Don’t know…never dynoed it but look at it this way…a 350\350 hp, had flat tops, similar heads, a smaller cam, and manifolds. So my domed pistons should be good for 2 more points of compression, .030 over bore, heads ported about as far as I’d want to go, larger solid cam, and headers should be good for 50+ hp. I’m sure it more than that…
as long as its tuned well on high octane gas it may be around 400-420hp…but it seems like a mismatch. usually that high compression wants a much bigger cam, and better intake manifold. even heads would show big improvements in power on that motor
Can’t squeeze any more lift out of it. At .525 the valve to piston clearance is actually very very close now. I really don’t understand why the heads are looked at like their junk. Up until a few years ago these heads were the best out there, and there were many high hp engines built with them. Sure there are many aftermarkets out there now that will outperform the camelhumps, but mine is in a street car which is the reason for the street dominator, and will spin 6800 rpm anytime so that is good enough for me.
As far as Slvr98camaros engine goes, with a little tuning, maybe an intake change, and cam change, his combo can be dialed in to run just fine and be a lot of fun.
yeah
vortec heads are the new good cheap factory head to use.
I did a little homework on the vortechs and saw there may be an issue with the domes and compression. I didn’t want to buy them and then end up with clearance or cracking problems. However with flattops the vortech is the best bang for the buck.
if you would have went with the vortecs and flat tops like me, you probably would be at the same horse power you are now and running 87 octane
Anyone that might want me to try to send them this program, e-mail me and I will try.
Tom
care to share why the cam needs to be bigger?
see, the car is running like crap now, if it was possible to drive it, i would prolly get 4MPG, and the plugs would be fouled out a mile down the road… :embarassd
thats the reason why i was hesitating on getting a new cam, i really dont know much about the engine internally
your lift is fine, but the duration could be stepped up since you have such a high compression ratio. you could use what you have now just fine but your leaving some performance on the table. bigger cams lower the dynamic compression ratio, and the only way to compensate that is to boost the static compression ratio up a few points. since your over 12 to 1, i can see a slightly bigger cam being a good match for that motor. take advantage of the compression and run a nice cam for it.
Tuning issue…
yeah, but we cant get it tuned right, the idle mixture screws on the carb dont seem to work, checked for vacuum leaks and found none, checked the vacuum and it seemed good, and the carb was rebuilt.
(the carb is a holley 600cfm, but i plan on getting a 750)
:bigok:
I personally don’t care for Holleys just because of the pain of tuning…Carb is a good place to start. Do you have another to put on just to see if that is the problem? Also is the intake a single or dual plane?
how much vacuum is the motor making at idle?
single plane intake, i DID try another carb (holley 750cfm) but it needed rebuilt, but it did do the same thing, which makes me believe it has to be a vacuum leak, or something… I was also thinking it may be a weak ignition, but i couldnt find anything for real cheap.
im not sure, but i do know it was within specs of the cam it has.
the car will run with the idle mixture screws turned in all of the way, which tells me it is bypassing the idle circuit on the carb
edit* i see i have contradicted myself in this post, the weird thing is, is that we looked for all possible vacuum leaks, and fixed them, and the test checks out ok
you need to know what the vaccumm is. it helps when adjusting the idle mixture screws, alos, if your only pulling let’s say 5" of of vacuum, and your powervalve is 6.5, then youre drawing extra fuel in.
are the floats set right?
what is timing set at initial and total?
I was running 11.50s N/A last season with a 11.25:1 383 w/ 062 Vortecs, 10.80s on a 125 shot. Ran on 93 pump gas.