IC: '93 240SX, blacktop SR20DET

i appologize for the lengthy post, i feel it’s needed whenever any car is sold.

Make/Model: 1993 Nissan 240SX LE
Asking Price: i am not sure what to ask, make me an offer. i definitely don’t need to sell it so don’t think you’re going to get the deal of a century.
Condition: Used
Mileage: 195,000KMish - odometer reads just over 200, different cluster… not that it’s much of a difference.
Location: Ayr, ON (near kitchener)
Contact Info: PM or post here
Description:
'93 240SX hatch LE.

clean title, never been in so much as a fender bender.

thinking about selling because there won’t be much space in my shop this winter and i am thinking about buying an R33 next season.

overall the frame and floor are great, there is one very small hole under the gas pedal that was covered with metal from the inside. other than that there isn’t so much as a soft spot anywhere. engine bay has zero rust, in the spring it was stripped down to nothing, sandblasted and coated with chassis saver rust paint which they claim lasts forever and is on par with POR15. strut towers had some minimal rust that was cleaned up by sandblasting.

i bought the car at 186,000km in january of this year in completely stock form and did 90% of this work before i started driving it. prior to me owning it, it was owned by a 30-40 year old asian bank manager who babied it, he had it serviced at Nissan and undercoated twice a year, it’s in very good condition thanks to him.

i drive this car pretty easily and rarely abuse it. it has been to the drag strip twice, other than that it has never seen track time.

original 5 speed, fully loaded car. every option you could get at the time except for automatic transmission… it even had an OEM CD player that i have never seen before.

Mod list:

Drivetrain:
Blacktop S13 SR20DET swap - compression tested it a couple weeks ago, it had very even compression, i believe they were all around 145PSI, though i can’t recall the exact numbers.
Koyo aluminum radiator
Flex-a-lite electric fan
ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch
Short shifter
Apex’i Intake
Megan 3" downpipe
HKS SSQ BOV
HKS adjustable wastegate actuator set to stock boost
Custom FMIC setup, piping powdercoated black
OEM VLSD works awesome every time.

Suspension:
Tien coilovers - fronts are basics with camber adjustable pillow ball mounts, rears are “control master” type flex
Megan adjustable rear upper control arms with about 200km on them
5 Lug conversion, S14 front hubs and control arms, Z32 rear hubs
5mm spacer in the front for the rims to clear the coilovers, with this the wheels fit very flush in the front, could use a spacer in the back.

Wheels/tires:
R32 Skyline GTR wheels, 16X8 +30 offset - one rim has some very slight curb rash on the rim, other than that the set is in very good condition
Front tires: Dunlop Direzza Z1 star spec 205/50R16 - still look brand new, 90%+ tread left
Rear tires: generic Goodyear eagle 205/50R16 50% tread - not mounted, will be done soon

Brakes:
non-ABS - was originally an ABS car but it was removed properly while i had the front end apart. you would never be able to tell it was originally ABS.
Z32 300ZX aluminum calipers, powder coated fire engine red
Z32 300ZX stock pads and rotors
Z32 2+2 e-brake cables with extensions, e-brake works but needs to be tightened a bit.
Z32 brake master cylinder included, but not yet installed. because of this the brake pedal is a bit soft.

Exterior:
OEM Foha urethane side skirts
OEM Foha urethane rear lip
Rear turn signals tinted red
front fender lips rolled
rear quarter panel lips rolled and a very slight pull.
unfortunately due to the pull, the drivers side dented above the wheel well, i imagine it can be pushed back out from inside but i haven’t tried

Interior:
non-A/C. everything was removed except the box behind the dash since i couldn’t find a non-A/C one at the time
Full black interior swap (used to be brown) - headliner and carpet were dyed black, the carpet could use some more dye to be perfect again.
S13 leathers dyed black, some of the dye flaked off because i did not prep them well enough, a proper cleaning and re-dye would be a good idea, passenger seat and rear seat are in mint condition, the drivers seat has a tiny rip in the typical spot on the bolster.
basic stereo setup: panasonic deck, rockford fosgate front speakers, clarion rear speakers, old MTX amp and old orion sub (from the days when cheaper car audio was good)
XM satellite radio with properly run & hidden wires, no subscription though.

now for the not-so-good stuff.

the car has a couple issues. right now it has no exhaust, i broke it because i am stupid. it is broken off right after the cat. it was the OEM exhaust so it still has an OEM cat. i still have the rest of the exhaust and a welder so if it has to be worked into the deal, i can reinstall it, though you might as well upgrade, it definitely holds back the potential of the engine.

another problem, it needs a right rear wheel bearing pretty badly, i would have fixed it this season, but i was planning on putting the car away in a week anyway, so when it let go yesterday i just stopped driving the car.

the car still has a valid e-test, it was tested in the spring (forget exactly when) and passed under hot-rod conditions. it was safetied at the same time, so obviously that isn’t valid anymore. for safety it will need the rear tires mounted, wheel bearing replaced, exhaust either put back on or replaced. it may need front brake pads, they were getting low last time i looked at them but would have still passed. ball joints, tie rod ends and the 3 other wheel bearings are all solid, i can’t see it needing anything else.

i feel that i have been very honest with this post, i’m not holding anything back.

pictures will be up shortly.

i apologize for the dirtyness. underbody/engine bay shots were taken today.

frame rails: the spot on the driver’s rail is solid, it looks like the rail is 2 layers of sheet metal and the outside one had some rust but the inside one is still good - not sure if this is the case, but it looks to be. i have hit the spot with a hammer and it is solid metal.

the rust above where the muffler would be is all minor surface rust, the camera flash was on so it magnifies it a lot, it is all very solid.








engine bay: yeah, the strut bar mounts are zebra striped, wanna fight about it?








taken about a month ago:


taken about 2 months ago:

taken last week: *MB battles in the picture are not included, nor are they for sale, don’t ask.



i just realized i don’t have many pictures of the passenger side… i don’t know why, there isn’t anything horribly wrong with it, haha.

PLEASE read the entire post before contacting me. i have been asked about things that have been mentioned.

just a heads up, if there isn’t much interest in the next week or so, i’m going to start selling some of the parts i won’t be using next season and working on it, it probably won’t be for sale for very long. if you are seriously interested make yourself clear before i start work on it.

also, i don’t want to certify it. if i sell it now it’s going to be as it sits, if i begin work on it i’m going to fix everything i can find and basically do another rebuild of the car. if i do this it will be to either keep it for myself to drive next season or to sell it cert/e’d and 100% proper in the spring when it will be a bit easier to sell a summer car.

thanks.

Bump for a clean car, and even cleaner strut-tower-bar-end-pieces-things.

YEAH!

okay, so lots of interest.

i have added up what i have into it. based on that i’m going to say that i don’t want to take less than $6,000 for it, that’s about half what i have into it.

“don’t want to take less than $6,000” means that an offer of $5,900 isn’t enough. i know if i didn’t say this, i would still get lowball offers… well i probably still will.

if you don’t like that price, that’s cool, just don’t clutter my thread with your opinion of it.

for those serious about buying it: i have a brand new in box garrett GT2871R .86 hot side ball bearing turbo that can be worked into the deal, obviously for more money. do not PM me if you want to buy just the turbo, i will not sell it unless i no longer have the car.

thanks.

how much for just the turbo?!

you’re shitty.

turbo alone is $7000, and you get a free s13 with it.

is this sold yet?

Speaking as brenden’s life partner=

“No. Car is still available.”

Parts are being removed as we speak, act fast!

as my life partner says, yes the car is still available, haha.

i’ve taken a couple parts off, if you want it complete i can put it back together.

let me know.

what’s being taken off the car?

i’ve taken the front bumper, rad and intercooler off, but they aren’t sold so i can put them back on for potential buyers.

so how much EXACTLY for this 240sx simplemind7 ? pm me

Damn, car actually looks pretty good with those GTR wheels.

thanks mark, i love those wheels.

price is $6000 firm. there is someone coming to look at it later this week that seems very serious, so it may be sold by this weekend.

alright, i’m tired of the car being in the way at my shop.

$5000 takes it with everything, as it sits if you come get it soon. this price is the firmest.

sr20, 5 lug, z brakes all installed on a good chassis. this is a steal.

my friend has a pair of new OEM nissan rear Z32 wheel bearings you can have for an additional $200 with the car.

can’t afford that? here’s another way to buy it.

$3500 gets you the car without the 5 lug, z brakes, coilovers, RUCAs or R32 wheels.

i’ll swap it all for stock springs/struts, stock 4 lug spindles with brakes and good wheel bearings, cross drilled rotors and PBR pads. wheels will be a pair of steelies and a pair of donuts unless you bring something to put onto it.

so it would be a good chassis with SR20, all black leather interior, power options, some mods (koyo rad, FMIC, strut bars, etc). running and driving.

PM me, get it soon.

lol what a steal

Such a steal. LOOK at the underbody pics. I’ve NEVER seen one so rust-less.