Well, not quite a HUD…but since this is integrated into my rearview mirror, I suppose my head has to be in the upright position, right?
I wanted to add gauges but I hate the whole gauge pillar/pod thing. I prefer stealth…
this uses a PLX Devices system. You can view as many as 4 sensor inputs on a single display, and you can daisy chain I think…about 32. Anyway, I hooked up Boost/Vac. I have the AFR “brain” hooked up, but I have to get a bung added to the downpipe to add the sensor.
Pics are crap…trying to hold a camera steady in the dark for 2s with no flash is pretty difficult.
And yes, the mirror preserves the Homelink function and AutoDimming features. I also hooked it up to a switch so if it annoys me late at night, I can turn the display off.
Surgery Applied To Mirror:
Fuzzy Shot of Boost
Closeup of Boost
There are several screens…another “analog” style…but that image was fuzzy. You can also view a real time graph of two inputs like PSI/AFR…also fuzzy…and since I was idle would have been a flatline anyway. This shot displays up to 4 sensors at once. I set up boost/vac and below AFR…although AFR is not really reading anything yet. I may add IAT or EGT as another input in the future.
“Custom Screen”. A neat feature of the DM100 is that you can create your own gauge style…develop in Photoshop or some other picture editor, upload the pics via USB and bam! custom gauge…this was from their gallery…You can match your OEM gauges/colors or go really nuts. But I will be playing with my own…Since it is an OLED and capable of 65k colors, you can get very creative with the animation
My beef with these things is that the stock graphics look like shit.
The AFR gauge looks nice and they way the others SHOULD look.
I am assuming the AFR was done in Photoshop?
What you do is create 100 BMP files, for each 1/100th change…pain in the butt for a PhotoShop neophyte like me , but they do have download galleries…so you can look like stock Subaru or Honda S2000 gauges for example.
yes, you have to etch it away. and I learned the hard way that not all electrochromatic mirrors are created equally…meaning not all are a single pane of glass with material backing. some (like mine) are 2 panes of glass with the autodim element sandwiched in between…long story short…it simply cannot be done on that setup. That said, if you don’t have autodim, you shouldn’t have a problem.
visor would be neat…you would have to check the depth though, you might have a, um…bulge.
As far as the control functions…look I think this thing is state of the art. I don’t see any reason why you need to show 4 gauges in 4 pods taking up so much real estate. This makes all of the sense in the world. There are a few gotchas though:
1 - The remote is WIRED. Seems out of place for something so innovative. I threaded the cord through the center console though and it is tucked away under my center arm rest. Really should have been wireless.
2 - The CUSTOM gauge function is excellent. But you cannot have more than 1 Custom Gauge. So AFR can look super cool, but flip to Boost and it will display using the stock gauge display shown above. That’s crunchy.
3 - Sensor Specific - BOOST/VAC cannot show the sweep motion all in one display. So you cannot go from negative to positive. Notice on the images above I flip from VAC, then I show BOOST. This is a function of the sensor output, not the DM-100. The only way to see both on screen is with the 4 Parameter display (also shown above).
4 - Sensor Specific - BOOST/VAC. They say it is 3 BAR but their output voltage doesn’t match the Greddy Spec for 3 BAR. It would have been nice to just output 2 copper wires from the PLX brain to the Piggyback for MAP sensor. Since it appears they are not the same and PLX cannot confirm/deny if it will work, it seems I need to get an additional MAP sensor for the Greddy. That’s an annoyance really.
All in all, I dig it. It’s stealth, no blinged out fast and the furious look with 4 gauges in the A pillar.
I wouldn’t know. They do make a DM-100 OBD2 model, but I didn’t get that one.
I have a separate scanner for my PC…AutoEnginuity. I like having it separate for a few reasons.
OBD2 units are big bricks…How’d you like to drive around with that dongle and a wire next to your left leg all day? The nature of my OBD scanning is to occasionally troubleshoot or check before inspection, not to let it run 24/7…so hooking up the laptop is fine for me when I need it. Lastly, the AutoEnginuity has most other “basic” scanners beat because you can pull manufacturer specific codes…For a license fee of course. But for $150 I can unlock every single Toyota and Honda specific code. Can’t do that with basic readers. Even the PLX.
I was thinking the same thing about the obd2 cable, as mine is right in the footwell as your getting into the car, that would suck. As for now I have just hooked up a digital boost gauge and stashed it into the ashtray, but I will be moving it to the visor, as the ash tray is proving hard to look at.
Dammmm that autoenginuity program is nuts, there is alot of stuff on there it can check/test. Even interior/electronics and all sorts of BS. Good info.
I removed it from the case…it is sandwiched in place behind the mirror…foam tape and hot glue (and pressure from the mirror case) keeps it snug and in place.
The unit itself comes in a standard 52mm diameter case (or 60mm), the cup itself is .7 inches deep…
Once you remove the components from the cup, the screen and circuit board is roughly .4"…give or take some millimeters…
you need to account for a little free space a few millimeters, like an LCD, the OLED screen does NOT like to be squished.
If you do squish the screen goes batty and goes off like a police car bubble. Sidenote: That was a fun drive home, thought the cops were behind me the whole way.
