hey guys. anyone know where i can get a SR knock sensor? or the part number for an equivelant?
if there is no knock sensor input will it retard the timing permanantly untill there is an input? not too sure… either way i need a new one…
You can drive without a knock sensor just fine. If it isn’t there the ecu is getting an input of 0 volts which the computer understands as no knock/detonation so it will not retard ignition. If you have to be without one for awhile just don’t beat the shit out of the car and boost it high into the rev range.
you should be able to run with out a knock sensor, if u look at how one is made it has quatrz (or somthing like it) which creats a voltage when it starts to vibrate (when u have knock) if there is no voltage then the ECU will think that there is no knock or throw a code either or. i would replace it tho
Cheers
i have heard they are like 300bucks and pointless to replace.
why not boost it up without it?
the only reason that i can think of is like ur O2 sensor if it goes bad the computer automaticly makes the mixture rich and throws a code. im not 100% sure but it might do the same with ur timming b/c there is 0 reference voltage comeing from the knock sensor (there is always vibration very smallto send a small voltage signal to let the computer know its working).
Cheers
You can, and I have read about guys completely removing them but I have always believed in the “better safe than sorry” motto. I’d rather lose the bit of horsepower up top that the knock sensor MIGHT pull. I guess it all depends on your setup. If you are running a stock SR without upgraded stuff I wouldn’t worry about replacing it. If you have an upgraded turbo and such i’d consider it money well spent.
$119USD from Courtesy Parts.
Their part # is: 22060-SR20T
yeah, dont run it, then that one day when you pump shitty gas because you were low on funds, forgot you don’t have a knock sensor, boost the hell out of it and blow up the car.
and there is a difference between 0volts and no volts. if you don’t have the thing plugged in at all then you’ll definitely be throwing codes, this is what I’m assuming your situation is because you have no way of knowing that thing works or not without having a datalogger of some sort or you check codes.
and just grounding the KS wire might not work; I tried doing that when I did my honda swap and I was still throwing codes, although I would only throw a code when I reached vtec rpms, so if honda has some way of telling it’s not there even when ti’s grounded I’m sure nissan does as well (probably something to do with resistance or the fact that is there no oscillation since no matter what, yoru engine is always vibrating)
people that don’t run knock sensors are either playing the odds or have had it tuned so they don’t need one.
that being said, I wouldn’t be suprised if a KA KS would work on an SR, they’re all the same, like someone mentioned, just an oscillating crystal.
and yeah, the computer will definitely retard the timing; it’s a basic safety precaution. Hondas and Toyota’s will also disable vtec/vvti (or whatever toyota calls it) and Im’ pretty sure in the s14 vtc is also disabled.
some more high end cars will also lower boost levels (if applicable).
just get one, heh, simple.
You know whats funny, I’ll bet you half of the peoples knock sensor on this board isn’t working. Knock sensors don’t even set a engine light cause nissan knows they go bad fast and it will run fine without it. Stock or not stock. They do set a code so you know that is bad but it’s nothen that needs to be replaced. We never change them at work unless the cust is being a ass. All of us at work don’t even run them on our cars. You people telling me if your going down the road knocking you can’t tell on your own? I wouldn’t get a knock sensor for a KA if you going to get one, those engines are ruff most likly the knock sensor is already bad from all the vibraton of the engine.
You’re kidding right? It isn’t only audible knock that can destroy your motor. You must have a magic ear or drive around town with a stethoscope glued to the cylinder block.
The the ecu can never back off enough timing to save you if you put shit gas in. If your knocking in going up the road you can tell by the way the engine is running. Even if it’s not a hard knock. Non of us really run a knock sensor on our cars, when they go bad we don’t bother replacing them. Nistecs at nissan canada don’t even run them. Do whatever you going to do to you sr or what ever engine your building, get it dyno tuned, done. Don’t go get it tuned to the point where your push every lil bit of hp out and leave, thats at the point where you going to proberly have problems. A knock sensor isn’t going to keep you from blowing your shit up.
if they’re as crap as you say, then why would nissan (or any manufacture) bother with them? why would it throw a code?
It throws a code only in the ecm, but not a light. A evap leak will throw a code and a light. Think about it. If it was important it would throw a light too. A evap leak is more important than a knock sensor f the evap will throw a light but a knock sensor won’t. A knock sensor is light the only thing on that won’t set a light beside nats codes.