I picked up a used E39 M5 diff on ebay a few months ago. It was sitting for over a year and needs some love, I’ll be rebuilding it eventually.
I do have 2 E39 diffs (open) in case anyone is interested in buying, they’re 2.81 and 3.15 ratio.
Is the M62 gone?
Motor is gone, sold to a guy in Michigan. However, I do have the 6 speed trans, clutch, and flywheel all still for sale. I’ll PM you.
So, I passed my LEED Green Associate Exam last night, was pretty stoked about that after having done nothing but study in my free time the last few weeks.
Dropped off the heads at Klispie’s, nice guys. They cleaned up the heads already and will be replacing the valve stem seals. Also will have them CC’d to see how far down we need to go to get to about 66cc chambers.
Definitely getting some stuff done in the garage tonight, I plan on removing the 3.15 open diff (for sale, not that anyone here will ever buy it) and probably getting the LQ4 block ready for paint. I used a whole can of aircraft stripper on it and it did a nice job, but not all of the paint was removed. If I have time I’ll mask it up and maybe paint it. Gunmetal grey engine enamel
Flat mill of .030-.036" will get you in the 65-66cc range on stock 317 heads
i asked them for .030" based on my own calcs but they are going to CC them to make sure we get to 66cc. don’t want to go more in case i decide to go with a hairier cam in the future.
i scraped the block down, aircraft stripped it some more (Advance Auto brand is better than Autozone by the way) and painted it.
can anyone make a recommendation for headgaskets? once i get the heads back i want to start reassembling this bitch as soon as i can. i hear the graphite ones are shit. does GM make an OEM MLS set? what’s the part number? 6.0L (bigger bore than LS1)
old head gaskets and RTV should be fine… 
how about some teflon tape on the heads? should be fine…
this thing will see some :tspry: :tspry: :tspry: so i want at least something that isn’t made of tin foils
GM makes a 6.0/6.2 MLS gasket. Have the number at the shop will try to remember to post it
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buy sce pro copper…its been working for my buddys boosted lq9
Best gaskets
can you guys provide a part number? The heads are done and I’d like to reassemble them and slap them back on the block. Maybe I can stop by the local GM dealership and grab them.
GM# 12589227
Slow bits of progress here and there. Had a cousin in from out of town so was busy with him all weekend.
Picked up the heads from Klispies and they look great. Ended up removing .026” to get chambers down to 66cc. Picked up new valve stem seals and threw those in. I installed the valve springs, keepers, and retainers on Saturday, so those are all set.
Painted the block gunmetal gray, will have to snap a few pics of that if I remember.
Had a line on a really nice built T56 and clutch/fw setup on St Catherines, but it fell through. I still need to sell the BMW trans.
Things are looking up!
found a T56 from a 2002 Camaro SS in Pittsburgh just 3 hours from me. It’s said to be in good working condition and includes trans, bellhousing, crossmember (though i wont use that) and hydraulic slave.
best part is it’s under $1000! so, my fiancee and i will be hopping in the station wagon and going on a day trip to grab it.
i will end up rebuilding the trans to be on the safe side, but this is great news because this means i can finally start mocking up the mounts and pan.
Also, heads are done. Klispie’s shaved them down .026” (cc’d to put me at 66cc). They did a really nice job cleaning them up and repairing one of the exhaust bolt holes. I installed the LS6 yellow springs and retainers with my homemade tool (let me know if you’d like to borrow it) and they look good.
Nice, can’t wait to see the to usher product
You’re strange you go super budget on some stuff now you’re buying a T56 and rebuilding it lol same thing with decking the heads.
I want to be able to “set it and forget it” on large important items like trans, heads, etc. For example, I’m only going to buy one trans, and I might as well do it right the first time (rebuilt). On the other hand, it’s super easy to swap a cam and valvetrain out in a weekend and play with very different setups. I cheaped out on the cam and springs (stock LS2) because I didn’t want the van shit, but I wanted an upgrade. The build would go on just fine without buying an expensive cam, springs, pushrods, valvetrain etc. However, without a trans, I can’t do shit (don’t know where to mockup the engine and shifter, etc), so I might as well have it done right, because I don’t want to do it again.
The plan is to get it running reliably and stockish with the “supporting mods” there for when I decide to start having fun with it. Car will run fine on either milled heads or stock 317 heads, so why take them apart later to have them milled? Then I have to buy headgaskets, headbolts all over again. (speaking of which, i need to buy the GM MLS headgaskets for the 6.0 and ARP headbolts)
I keep getting the itch to spray the piss out of it when it’s all done and running right. What’s a safe shot on an iron 6.0 with higher compression (whatever it is with 66cc chambers?) 100? 150? Assume rear end, trans, and clutch can all handle it.
I’m not a fan of these at all. If they are a must, use them on an O-ring’d engine.
I had great luck with LS9 (I think) 5-layer gaskets. For a non-boosted setup, the 3-Layer 6L MLS gaskets work great.
Seems like you should be able to get away with a 100-150 hell people take those 6.0/5.3 stock bottom ends and make 500-600hp with turbo setups pretty often.