the x-brace is only $99 plus shipping, the extra cost is the buffer stop, the stupid little pice of rubber that attaches to that random bracket on it, prevents the drivetrain from turning past a certain degree which transmits power more effectively, eliminates wheel hop, and is easier on bushings as that buffer is now taking the majority of the twisting forc eon the drivetrain…
My parts are cheaper than 98% of Japanese parts, including Hondas. For all the work Benny’s doing, those prices are very reasonable.
Benny- To do the CSB, Midway Auto on Central Ave did a great job on mine for $27. I brought them the driveshaft and it took them an hour.
Good list, she’ll feel like a million bucks. Have you done front control arms/bjs? Do you still have the THR CABs? You can get front sway bar endlinks for cheaper than that but dont, they’re shotty quality. I had one break on track after only a year of use.
Does that $27 include the cost of the bushing/dust shield?
or the cost of the CSB PLUS $27?
And the endlinks i was planning on buying were made by a forum member, i can’t search for the thread because i’m in TO, but they were $80 shipped, silver with red rod ends…thats all i remember, ill search around
I bought the complete bearing w/ housing and brought it to them. So CSB + $27. I dont know how to service a u-joint and dont want to try it first time on my own car that sees triple digits.
Ah adjustable endlinks, gotcha. Use a nylock nut on them if you have a fatty front bar since they like to come loose.
I was actually planning on a using them on the stock bar…bad idea?
I just wanted something to replace the HORRID stock ones i have now, there’s srsly no rubber left of the boot…bad.
I figured when i DO get a bar or bars I’d get new endlinks anyway, so why not get ones that are adjustable so the bar isn’t preloaded, shouldnt wear out to quickly, and look so damn hot :rofl
Nope, no boots, they’re similar to the Mason Engineering ones that vorshlag sells, just cheaper rod ends/materials probably…you think not having a boot will effect longevity?
sorry benny,
i didn’t look at the price, i only posted up the uuc link for the buffer’s part #.
jesse,
no i don’t have the buffer. i was thinking about getting it before and it totally slipped my mind until benny brought it up in this thread. i don’t think the bar’s brace where the buffer sits will actually show the contact marks. (i’d think it wouldn’t shift that much.) how thick is the buffer?
$27.00 to install the center bearing? thats a good deal. :wow
i can’t wait for freakin swaybarbarians. god i am pumped. ;D
I WAS going to get the UUC’s too, but Rob kinda creeps me out to be honest :rofl, he reminds me of the guy from family guy with the lisp, one earring, and a scruffy beard, i forget his name…people have told me such good things about the eibach bars, i’ll probably go with those…
Re: boots on endlinks: Probably, but they’re cheap. Just keep an eye on em like the other joints.
The Eibach and H&R bars were recommended the highest for a handful of small reasons, I’m sure they’re fine.
I bought the H&Rs and eventually took the rear off and put the stock one bar one since I couldn’t get it soft enough. Still running the front tho and sold the rear.
:shifty