hey man, you can do what you want and I wasn’t saying you weren’t capable, but it sounded like you might be questioning your own level of knowhow to move ahead. That’s cool if I misinterpreted that, didn’t mean to. I was just responding with my own experience to a question that you were apparently looking for the answer to, and telling you that after 3 years and over 50,000 boosted miles with the exact turbo you were talking about, in rain, shine, snow, sub zero temps to racing at the track in 30+ degree weather at 11psi last friday night… I’m saying my turbo is running fine, so if reliability is what you’re using to make your decision it’s not like BB turbos are LESS reliable. Sure they might cost a little more to rebuild, but I try not to make decision based on “what if it all goes to hell”… I make it based on what’s the best turbo for what I’m looking for performance wise, reliability wise and so on. So just do your research on exactly what it is you want your turbo to do while it’s alive, not dead. Remember you’re boosting a QR, so let’s not even get started on what you might have to rebuild first.
best of luck though with your decision either way.
I love this guy couldnt have said it better myself. If your not on a shoe string budget get the BB power delivery is so quick and smooth its 1940s technology compared to 1990s technology that has fianally become affordable for the average guy.[/quote]
yeah I gotta admit, I’ve thought about getting rid of it and going with a new project, but I still love driving it every day. It’s loud and obnoxious and it rattles and people who don’t drive it hate it I’m sure when I drive by them… but this thing just comes to life when you step on it and that’s why I keep it. And it doesn’t sound like a 4-banger that’s for sure.
Might be looking at a used 350Z though to put a snail on in the next year or so. G35 hey? Amazing car man. Nothing about that car I don’t like. And with the boost, well I might have to have a look at that one one day. Bet it’s sweet.
actually i was comparing the compressor efficiency maps of the two turbos right off the website he showed, not the so called “15% faster spool”.
that’s all marketing BS. no one uses “traditional journal bearing” turbos anymore, they’re comparing 270 degree journal bearing to a “newer GT cartridge”. turbo lag is more of a tuning issue than anything else as well. if you’re overstepping the pedal, it’ll bog and seem to accelerate slowly, until it almost explodes with power. or similarly, nissan programs their ECUs to pull a ton of timing when you’re going into boost. if you’ve selected a turbo that will be out of it’s efficiency range when you want to have full boost, you won’t have the timing to accelerate your car properly.
for those who really want to know more about their turbos, and “why is my car so laggy” they should read this site first (before selecting any turbo): http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm
secondly, i’d suggest at least taking the car to be tuned by a professional who can adjust your timing and fuel for your new compressor map.
i can’t stress enough that TUNING includes proper selection of parts to go with your setup, and the ECU part of it plays a major role. if someone complains that their GT2871 isn’t hitting full boost till 4500 rpm, they’re doing something WRONG. my friends 1.8L hits 10psi at 2500rpm and pulls solid till redline. it’s a T3/T4 turbo which is much larger than any T28 out there.