Engine
Code: WE
Description: inline n/a 5 cylinder belt-driven SOHC, 2 valves/cyl
Displacement: 2144cc
Bore/Stroke: 79.5mm/86.4mm
Compression ratio: 8.2:1 (??)
Horsepower @ RPM: 100 @ 5100
Torque @ RPM: 110 @ 2500
Redline: 6300
Fuel system: Bosch K-Jetronic port fuel injection (CIS)
well, u have cis-e. thankfully for you, the audi 4k cis-e is not as much of a headache as the vw version in 16v cars. or maybe i just hate having it on 16v motors b/c it seems to be a pita but i never had same problems w/ it on 8v cars…
anyways
read this for a brief over view of cis.
http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/pressure.html
and then read this, as i think this will help u fix ur problem–
The desribes the cold start issue, But I ran avery simple test with that, slightly disconnect the 6th injector, and crack very healthy spray of gas, (All over everything), but it starts fine, problem is waiting for it to warm up, I think air flow and gas are fine, but I know the thing is running very rich, black tail pipe, and clouds of black when under mid-hard accleration.
u check o2 sensor?
im going to replace today. see if that does anything
I cleaned the ISV(screw right beside the throttle linkage), seems to idle better, but gas is still being sucked down, 86 miles Im at a .5 tank???
take your car to a emission shop and have the co content set properly.
Installed the o2, old was all carbed up, plus seems like someone disconnected it. See what happeneds? any good emissions places around?
well, if ur o2 was not hooked up, car will go into a safe mode and run rich. cis-e is simple like that. it wont prevent you from running, it will however fail on the safe side. new plugs/cap/rotor/wires/air filter/fuel filter wouldnt hurt either if shit has been neglected
you can actually use a volt meter and read o2 sensor current to get a/f down. i know ligioner a1 andrew had a poteniometer knob mounted inside his car to lean/richen fuel on the fly. i never got too crazy into cis and learned the “tuner” tricks. i just got it down enough to fix shit when it broke, and to set the air fuel close enough by ear via listening to engine. shit allways passed emissions that way, but im sure could have been better. i have been efi longer than i have been mechanicial fuel injected.
Well I tuned it to the specs, where I got the stats above from, idle rpm 8-900, seems to runs fine I had new plugs in it already, Im going to get a cap and button, I ahve the wires , but still pulls the cold start bullshit. Idles fine till you hit the gas, but let it warm up for like 2 min’s and its fine???
Just to be clear, it runs fine when warmed up? No longer belching black smoke, etc?
The bits of the CIS system involved in cold starts are pretty limited.
Auxiliary Air Valve- A mechanical door that is controlled by a electrically heated bi-metallic strip. When cold the AAV bypasses the throttle plate to allow a fast idle.
Cold Start Valve- Sprays fuel into the intake plenum while the starter is cranking.
Thermo-Time Sensor- This sensor detects the temperature of the cylinder head and when below a prescribed temp allows the cold start injector to spray fuel.
Warm-up regulator- An electrically heated bi-metallic strip operates a valve that controls fuel pressure to the fuel distributor. Many WURs have a vacuum diaphragm that provides enrichment during acceleration.
That’s it. Most of these are either off or on, so troubleshooting is pretty easy.
A couple of quick things to check out…unplug the 6th inj harness and see if anything is differnt with start up and warm up. The thermo time sensor tells basically completes the circuit to the 6th inj if it’s below a certain temp and shut off the current to the inj if it’s above a certain temp, so if the thermo time switch is bad, the 6th inj might be running constantly. You can put a circuit tester/test light on it to see what’s what. If unplugging the inj effects things, I suspect this.
Likewise, when you first start the car, pinch the hose between the Aux Air valve and the intake mani. If the engine rpms drop, AAV is functional as you just robbed the engine of it’s warm up air. If there’s no change, it’s siezed/closed and not allowing extra air into the engine that keeps the rpms up for warm up . If it’s not working, break out the test light and check that it’s getting juice.
Also check that the warm up regulator (bolted to the block) is getting 12v. That thing works on heat, which is why they bolted it to the block. Once the block is warm, the warm up reg is warm and reduces fuel flow. To make the warm up regulator heat up quicker, ie lean the engine a little quicker, they put a heater in it and feed it 12v. So check that. If it’s not getting juice, it’s going to take longer to lean the engine out.
So the problem is within those bits somewhere if the rest of the tune is within spec.
Chech these links(don’t sweat it that they’re Porsche, Volvo or BMW oriented, CIS is CIS…)
http://ncr-pca.org/tech/tech-cis.htm
This one is pretty good for pics of hte various components:
http://www.lexam.net/peter/carnut/320parts.html
Actual Bosch manual:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fuel_injection/k_jetronic.shtml