Got front lower on today for test fit. All grilles, splitter (not shown), and headlight interior (joey mod for all the V-Dub folks) will be dark titanium gray; front lower and full body will stay same factory silver.
Also installed 034 stiff motor and tranny mounts, and did turbo blanket and TP/DP wrap and beefed up some heat-shielding on the hot side.
Gonna do internals soon so I can run race gas file without worrying.
It’s getting there…
now thats fancy!
nice
Looking good! I like the new bumper much better 
Oh, I think I read somewhere that your rods are slightly different then mine and are powder cast, hence making them a bit more brittle then the ones on transverse set ups.
You obviously have some good choices out there for reasonably cheap. I know Integrated Engineering rods are like 319shipped (for 19mm wrist pins) and have held 380whp on a jetta in A-town, Ohio.
There are tons of rod options for the longitudinal 1.8t. I’m looking at integrated engineering chromoly or maybe scat… should be able to handle up around 400hp with no problems (so they say on the Audi forums), and pretty cheap. I’m hoping to go with 20mm pins if I can. Couple guys have done it so we’ll see.
As for the front end, it’s from a A4 B6 Ultrasport. I didn’t like the “body kit” look of my old one; it never did turn out the way I wanted it to (I custom fabricated it myself). So, I just went with an OE part. It will have a splitter, though, but that is drying from paint so I didn’t have a pic of that yet.
nice
Looking good!
I almost got an USP A4. I really loved the look. Instead I ended up w/a GLI. Either way, I’ve always been a fan of VAG lip kits or whatever you’d want to call them. They’re subtle, but they always seem to be the perfect touch IMO.
If you’re sticking w/the 28RS you should be fine w/just about any aftermarket rod. I guess you’re planning on pistons if you do the 20mm wrist pin?
Contemplating 2.0 stroker. Car is garaged winter anyhow so may be a little project to tackle. We’ll see.
That would be a neat project. But, I mean… your 28RS could then be a 2871 or 3071 and basically keep around the same spooling aspects
Then you could be around 380awhp on pump probably? I’m just saying 
I imagine you’d need some sort of stand alone for a 2.0 though.
Guys are running pretty well with REVO and either lemmiwinks or the SPS3 unit using the 71R 1.8t software on the 2.0. Not sure of particulars, but none are running stand alone, yet.
We’ll see. I’m letting others be guinea pigs first before I try it, as I’m not as much of a tweaker as someone like you with knowledge to do it might be. This is my first forced induction car and I’m learning as I go. I kind of went APR so I wouldn’t have to tweak and could run plug-n-play out of the box. Great kit and I’m handling a lot of cars I wouldn’t expect to. But 'ya know, once you’re quick, you just want to be quicker… the bug bit me.
And the beauty is that I can get more for selling my kit than I paid for it. I deal direct with APR and got a huge discount; enough that if I sold my kit I’d at least break even… from what I see others paying for used Stage 3+ kits.
No matter what I do, though, it’s still a heavy pig. So somewhere I’m going to have to call “Enough is enough”. Guys with my kit are running mid-12’s and that’s good for me. The real tweakers with the B6 still haven’t broken in to the 11’s, so for someone who doesn’t drag much, that .5 second is not worth it. I don’t really live in 1/4 mile straight lines anyhow. I’m more road track, myself. At this point, I’m happy that it isn’t the 16-17 second car it was when stock.
You don’t need standalone for a 2.0, and if you do decide to upgrade from your current set up
A. APR has SW out for larger then gt28rs, you just either tweak it yourself or beg them for theirs
B. Use another chip manufacturer beside REVO, please for your own sake
Update with splitter test-fit:
splitter looks nice, me likey
Looks good. Let me know how you like the engine mounts-- I need some for my B5 Avant and the 034 stuff is a lot cheaper than the RS4 mounts.
Opinions? Don’t hold back; sometimes in a project you can’t see the forest for the trees and other’s opinions help. Ditching the splitter, rings, badges, grilles, whatever you may not like… is not an option for the haters, though.
For those of you not familiar with Audi, the front lower is from a version of A4 called the “ultrasport”. The front upper and lower portion of bumper are usually two pieces. The upper of the “Ultrasport” doesn’t look good to me, so I molded the ultrasport lower to my stock upper and shaved it to be one piece front bumper. I then used a splitter meant for an earlier version of A4, because it most closely matched the ultrasport curves. I cut and trimmed it to fit, and here it is, almost ready for paint. The grilles, splitter, and headlight interior housings will all be same color, and of course bumper will match body color.
I think you did a super good job, the only things I don’t like are the rings, otherwise pure sex. Are you planning on painting the splitter when you do the bumper or leaving it contrasting?
It’s blasphemous for an Audi to lose it’s rings… lol.
The splitter and grilles and interior headlight housings will all be same dark graphite gray that they are now. So the whole bumper will be the silver body color, and the trim, including splitter, will contrast.
Splitter won’t match body color; that’s a little “too” body kit for my tastes and I’d prolly get flamed from all the Audi people I know if I did that. I’m sure I’ll already get ish for putting a splitter on it.
That’s what I figured, the splitter line doesn’t match the side skirts so the incentive to body match is eliminated.
Just tell people you reduced underhood temps by some arbitrary amount by removing the rings, or make up some obscure Audi team that did it and won the title, lol.