pre-war purchase...with a twist

30w in the trans, right?

dexron from what I read.

Since you have the older NWC trans you aren’t supposed to use dexron. There are a few different answers, convince yourself which one to use. I’m using rotella 40w since it was on sale at autozone

NWC vs WC

http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5_history.htm

Dexron-III ATF replaced Dexron-II in 1993. While Dexron-III meets or exceeds the previous specifications, the viscocity of Dexron-III is thinner than the original Dexron-II that was specified for the NON-World Class T-5. This thinner fluid is fine for the World Class T-5 with the lined synchro rings, but the NON-World Class T-5 with the brass synchro rings needs a thicker fluid to work optimally. As a result, Tremec has specified 30W MOTOR OIL for the NON-World Class T-5’s.

http://www.gilfether.com/my-experience-using-different-t5-transmission-fluids/256/

Q: What type of Transmission fluid should I use in my Non World Class T5?A: As I stated in my article, the transmission shop and company that re-manufactured my new Non World Class T5 told me to use Syncromesh fluid. This can be bought at any auto parts store. I currently am using the Pennzoil Syncromesh because it’s all that is available at the Advanced Auto near me. There are other brands too. DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID!

this thread talks all about how in early NWC t5’s you can use gear oil but also mentions that you can use dexron ATF in ALL versions of the t5

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i just looked up my trans code its def this

[TABLE=“class: body-estext”]
[TR=“bgcolor: D9EEEB”]
1352-072
GM 1985 Camaro/Firebird 5.0 V8
U
2.76
2.95
1.94
1.34
1.00
0.63
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

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One last piece of important information. ALL World Class T-5 use ATF (Dextron III) oil and NOT heavy gear oil or Redline MTL! All NON-World Class T-5 use 50 wt gear oil. (The original Ford/Borg-Warner recommendation back in 1984 was Dextron II. As this is no longer available, we and TREMEC recommend the 50 wt gear oil.) We recommend high quality Synthetic oil as it lasts a long time and over a larger operating temperature. It is important to change the oil in your transmission based on how you use the vehicle. If the vehicle is your daily driver then changing the oil every two to three years is fine.

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so much conflicting information…

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so after about an hour of research im left with no idea what to use.

options thus far include:

synchromesh
50wt gear oil
70wt gear oil
atf
dexron iii
engine oil

Haha my thoughts exactly. Buying the 2.5 gallon jug of Rotella made it easy. Enough for the engine and trans in one go.

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You have NWC?

yeah the trans code is def from an '85 camaro and from what i read GM didnt start using WC t5’s until '88

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this snip has convinced me to look for a synth ATF i think

The NWC T5 gears run on bronze bushings & use all-brass synchros - just like most older transmissions. These were originally designed to run on gear oil.

WC T5 have roller bearings and carbon-fibre blocking rings on the synchros - this is modern technology designed to use modern lubricants.

Lubricants have also evolved over the years. Many lubricant additive packages will allow usage beyond the recommended or OEM. It is my personal opinion (opinion only) that GM changed and recommended ATF in their NWC T5 due to shift feel. Not if it will shift or not, or how quickly, rather, how smoothly and quietly.

It is now so hard to find basic non-hypoid gear oil that it simply isn’t worth the effort with the advances most modern ATFs have. When you think of the duty ATF has to perform, you’ll realize it’s actually an incredible lubricant and hydraulic fluid. So, I’ve evolved too - I now use synthetic ATF in all my T5s - WC and NWC.

Auto transmissions use combinations of bushings and bearings and operate at temperatures a manual transmission will never see. This whole “it’s hot in Florida” is a red herring as far as which lube to use. Since you have a NWC T5, use either.

Hmm. I think the next time I have the trans out I’ll try ATF and see if the shift feel changes. I tried to do the 2.8 qts everyone calls for and it was just to the fill hole level that I’ve always followed so not worth the hassle of measuring.

I have a lot of drivetrain whine but I think it’s coming from the rear end.

yeah ill grab 3qts of dex3 atf and hope for the best lol.

my trans sometimes slips out of 2/4/R but I think its a shift boot alignment issue

after work today:

fresh Dexron III
bled and replaced the clutch fluid
adjusted the shifter
adjusted the e-brake

What’s to adjust in the shifter?

i noticed that it kept falling out of 2/4/R really easily

at first i thought it was just a byproduct of a transmission thats been raped with way too much power

well as i was under the car today i decided to inspect the hole cut in the floor and it seemed like the shifter was awful close to bottoming out so to speak.

so then i decided to inspect from the top and noticed that it actually wasn’t able to get fully into gear so i cut out some of the floor/rug/insulation and boom.

much better. :tup:

“adjusted” lol

lol it was easier to write that than the long explanation i ended up writing anyway

Probably eased a ton of worry with that ‘adjustment.’ I love it when it works out like that.

boom i now have fully working gauges!

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well except the speedo but who gives a shit about that one

interior door handles came in

i was told they were pre tapped and came with set screws -____-
but since of course that wasnt the case.
so i had to tap them myself…

boom

lol love the fingers crossed decal next to the ignition key

i thought it was fitting

spent the day cruising with my Brandan and his awesome '36…and yes it has a proper flathead

more pics from yesterday

[video]http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v201/XwalkerX1/D1D7624F-A0BF-48E3-B6C7-87BA4C5B1759_zpsc2q2gglj.mp4[/video]

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also here are pics i forgot to upload from Donut Derelicts last weekend

brisk 41 degrees at 6am

[video]http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v201/XwalkerX1/AD097B99-73E7-48D1-8D29-CABE073FE157_zpsafddzx3g.mp4[/video]