Both fronts and rears are not press in, so technically they should come off with a little pulling and tapping. I’ve never had a problem with the fronts coming off, and their incredibly simple to change. The rears on the other hand can get pretty bad, sometimes they’ll come out with slight persuasion, but other times you will have to press them out. In which case $200 is probably an underestimate as it is a big job to remove the spindle from the car and press them out.
word rears can be a bitch, I had Vlad help me out and we got them out with a hammer and a punch/chisel like tool. good luck cause like Trevour said the rears can be a BIG job
yeah its the rears. And i have the spindles off the car I was just bring them in on there own so I thought it would be something they could do in 5 mins
I was worried to do to much with a hammer or chisel like that you didn’t take any pics while you were doing it did you?
if you loosen the bolts on the rears you can hammer the top of them a bit thats how i did it…but i also had extra bolts so i didnt care if i mashed up the bolts a bit
Are you talking about the actual bearing on the hub, or the hub itself on the spindle.
Either way, I spent 30 bucks at princess auto for a 2 jaw remover thing, and a bearing race remover for 20 bucks. Pulled the hubs out of the knuckle by ghetto rigging the 2 jaw puller, to get the entire hub off, used a rubber mallet to great success also.
As for the bearing on the hub itself, you can remove the bearing using the 2 jaw puller, and then use the bearing race puller to remove the remaining part of the bearing still on the hub.
Either way, you could do this your self for 50$ and 2 hrs work. Even less time actually, since you got the knuckle already off the car.
hey thanks for the help guys. I did the chisel thing that worked well took forever though
got another question I just noticed my 5 lug hubs i picked up are a bit different
the metal that the studs are pressed into is thicker on one than the other. I’m guessing there from different years of s14 or something. Can I run these and not have any problems> I measured them and they don’t seem to be to different maybe only a mm off., Still a piss off to notice it now
s14 5 lug hubs are thicker, then all 4 lug hubs on 240’s, s13 and s14. There thicker then the ichiba hubs too.
Nothing wrong with it. The hubs are still 5 x 114.3, and the hubs still accept the same size axle. So your good. If they don’t do the for mentioned things, then they aren’t s14 hubs.
umm…s14 front hubs inner diameter is 32mm and s13 front hubs I.D. is 30mm.
might have some play with the hub over the spindle, maybe get or make a ring spacer
S14 spindle on left and S13 on right, you can see the difference in size
there are aftermarket front 5 lug hubs made to fit on s13 spindle, such as ichiba…
thers no OEM 5lug that will fit on s13 spindle without that gap
i wouldnt run it with that gap, just get s14 spindles (but then you have to change the s13 control arm balljoint to s14 balljoint because its a different taper)
or run it with s14 control arms as well (will widen track width by around 10mm)
oh yeah i know that about the fronts I tried it. I’m surprised no one does sell a press on inner ring for the swap.
But my difference is on the rear.
I;ll take a pic tonight but the metal is clearly thicker on one hub than the other. They are both 5 lug hubs and both from s14 spindles. maybe the one hub was taken from something else ( z32 or r32) and pressed into an s14 spindle. Not fully sure though. Both bearings are good and the z32 ebrake fit on both so i’m sure they’ll work. If anything my rim will be in a mm compared to the other if anything.
im assuming an a 5 lug swap for a S14 se is alot simpler. I just bought rear s14 5 lug hubs for my s14. its a direct swap right? Just curiouse since we are all talkiing about it