QUESTIONS QUESTIONS QUESTIONS

Hey guys, so in light of me keeping my '89 coupe and finishing up my current project in the next couple weeks, the 240 will finally be seeing some progress in the way of parts. I know you guys have probably heard some of these questions before, but I have a couple scenarios I need worked out. Any help would be appreciated. So I bought a '93 240sx hatch in white, with a blacktop SR20DET in it, running, but needs head work (I am rebuilding the whole motor, so this wasnt an issue.) It is stock other than that, black leather interior, oem nissan wheels etc etc. I need the front bumper because I dont like my current '89 pignose. It also comes with another SR20DET which is a redtop (block has a spun rod but no block damage) no transmission, turbo, nothing just head/block.
So I have to pull the blacktop out of the '93 as soon as I get the car due to room being an issue. So what I have been told is the Backtop has variable valve timing, and a bigger turbo, so I am sticking with it.

  1. Is there anything I should know when pulling the motor? (As in, problems people run into, tricks, quick tips, I know this seems dumb, but anything that would prevent any unwanted speedbumps or delays)
  2. Do I used the wiring harness coming out of the '93, and ecu as well?
  3. Anything else I would need from the '93 mechanical wise?
  4. Anything else that comes to mind for this swap?

Also, this deal comes with some extra parts. An extra bumper which will be sold with the shell (I am using the current one on the '93 because it has been modified to fit the intercooler coming with it. So I will have the pignose bumper and some other stuff for sale. Here is a small list, what I am looking for is some type of pricing on what this stuff is worth.

  1. Redtop SR20DET (Just motor as explained above )spun rod
  2. Rear Diff off my coupe (there is a rear diff included that was off an automatic 240 and has 4.11 gears which I am being told has shorter gears, better acceleration, so I will be using that and selling the one I have.
  3. Eibach springs (in box)
  4. Pignose bumper (faded red paint)
  5. '93 nissan 240 hatch shell (complete interior, leather seats, and all, no exhaust no motor/tranny, solid frame is what i have been told)it will be sold with steel rims, not the oems…i want to keep those.

What is this stuff worth? not looking for vegas pricing, more like I want it to be a good price so I can sell it asap, and have it out of the way.

Thanks for the help, I will update this if I find anything I missed.

Google it is LOL.

Reported for double post*
Jk. Your thread is abit of a clusterfuck though.

  1. Take your time. Dont break anything or fray the wire harness. How are you removing the engine? Do you have a lift or are you using a jack trolley? I find it easier to remove the engine from the top, disconnect the transmission, lift the vehicle then remove tranny from bottom. I hate to try angling and squeeze full engine/tranny out of engine bay altogether.

  2. Its easier to just use an SR harness but if youre deadset on using KA harness use the 93. Heres a guide: http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html I believe there are better ones on NicoClub but im too lazy to search.

  3. Assuming you’re using a complete SR20 swap kit / full block and tranny then no.

  4. Stop trying to be cheap by reusing KA parts cause splicing the harness is a pain in the dick.

Parts value questions: (you should state alot of things like mileage, condition, etc which makes the price vary.)

  1. $600-800, less depending on condition of other parts but you may wanna part it out instead.
  2. Is it the VLSD? I’d say $100 - $150
  3. BNIB? Around $200 as they are $225 new.
  4. I dont know, $0? I didn’t think anyone wanted that fugly front end, try to trade it for other parts.
  5. Well so many people bullshit when it comes to cars being ‘mint’ / ‘clean’ so i have my doubts on it being solid. Do you know if its had a patch job or anything? I’d probably price it under a grand unless its actually emaculate condition.

Considering im the only person on here that stepped forwards and answered your Qs, I’d suggest donating this stuff to me. (:

thanks for input, no not trying to be cheap, i dont want to do any splicing, but if the harness being used in the hatch is for the sr20 i should obviously keep it, looks like i sold the hatch for $800 at ths point…i had a guy on here offer me $50 on the front bumper couple weeks back, said no at the time because i wanted to keep it complete until i knew what i was doing…thanks for the input…need to do some more research, but i dont have any plans of rushing it, i want it out next summer…

---------- Post added at 02:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 AM ----------

oh yeah and the KA that is in my coupe at the moment…whats it worth? 205kms, no tranny…might be worthless? lol…

You’d save yourself a huge headache by buying an SR20 or conversion harness instead of turning that one into a converted harness and ecu. Sell it for a few hundred bucks and spend the money towards the SR20 harness. Btw did you buy a completed kit with SR20 long block, trans, ecu, harness etc or just an engine and you’re trying to source out the rest of the parts? GLWB.

If you need ECU aswell, you should be able to find used oem ECU and Harness for $500

Though I recommend buying used, here’s an idea of what you need if you cant find it. http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/OEM-Engine-Harness-for-Nissan-SR20DET.html

This is the thing I dont understand. I bought an SR20. BLACKTOP running in a '93 240sx hatch. So there should be. an SR20 harness and ECU in there. So I think I am good there. It seems I have everything I need for the swap. My questions are more directed to the ease of the motor pull, what I should keep and the prices of the stuff I am selling. Thanks for input. I will pull this motor amd just take everything out of the bay, seeing as I sold the 240 as a shell.

too much to read and i got bored. lol

When pulling ur motor out, be careful of the powersteering hardlines on the power steering rack.

Also, If you ever plan on modifing the motor from stock, then a redtop is a better motor.

Variable valve timing will be useless if you ever want a bigger turbo and cams.

Redtop responds better to mods. Although blacktop turbo is bigger, its not a signifcant improvement, at most ppl see a 10-20whp difference max. And stock, both motors max at 230-250 whp because they both run same size injectors. So Redtop is a better motor. You can google it. Its the reason many s14 owners swap a redtop in too.