:ugh:
you and jay? together, or individually?
a win is a win, thats all i have to say. no bickering, good runs, the end.
If you want to run me again, we’ll do it on the track
who the fuck invited you to this thread
like your one to talk. Atleast Kurt can work on them. You on the other hand bought your car modded, couldnt drive it and ended up breakin it , then sold it for a family car… so go back to westpa , claim to be someone important, and stfu
(from act)
Due to its thicker diaphragm, the ACT2600 and other heavier clutches require higher than stock pressure to be created inside the hydraulic system in order to fully compress the diagphragm of the pressure plate and achieve full disengagement of the clutch. Since the stroke of the master cylinder is limited by the travel of the clutch pedal, the master cylinder is unable to generate the pressure in the hydraulic system to fully disengage the ACT2600 unless the initial pressure inside the hydraulic system is adequately increased. This is normally achieved by adjusting the rod of the master cylinder. However, even with the adjustment rod hanging in the last few threads of the C-bracket of the clutch lever and the initial pressure increased, the clutch may still not fully disengage or engage very low off the floor, which may result in premature waer of the synchros, gears, pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel. Bellow is a chart explaining the relation between the pressure needed to disengage the ACT2600 and the stroke of the clutch pedal:
The stroke of the clutch pedal doesn’t change and directly dictates the stroke of the master cylinder. As you can see, if the master cylinder is not able to create the pressure needed to disengage the ACT2600 within its last 1/4 of the total pedal travel off the floor, the disengagement pressure won’t be met and the clutch will not fully disengage. The disengagement pressure point should be met aproximately 10-12% of the total travel of the pedal off the floor, which will compensate for clutch disengagement / shift timing error. However, if the disengagement pressure point is placed too high - and the clutch starts to engage let’s say at 50% of the pedal stroke, one will generate unecessary additional pressure in the hydraulic system that may possibly blow the seals of the master and slave cylinder if the pedal is pressed all the way to the floor, since the disengagement pressure point represents the point where the back of the clutch fork hits the bellhousing stopp and the throw of the fork is maximized.
The above is the release diagram of the stock fork. Notice that the plunger of the master cylinder is normally open and there’s 0 psi of initial pressure inside the system. Once one starts pressing the clutch pedal down, the adjustment rod of the master cylinder pushes the piston inside the bore, the plunger closes the filler orifice and the piston starts creating pressure inside the system. Once the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there’s sufficient pressure inside the hydraulic system for the stock clutch to be fully disengaged
Since the ACT2600 requires higher disengagement pressure that can be achieved only by increasing the initial pressure due to the limitated master cylinder stroke, the initial pressure is increased by screwing the adjustment rod out of the C-bracket and pushing the piston of the master cylinder inside the bore. However, this will leave one with only a very few threads of the adjustment rod left, which doesn’t allow for additional adjustment and raising the engagement point if needed and the clutch consequently engages right off the floor.
Some people choose to weld a nut onto the C-bracket or use a longer bolt with rounded head in place of the adjustment rod, which allows them to push the piston even deeper inside the cylinder and achieve the necessary initial pressure. Both methods have their shortcomings, though. If the piston of the master cylinder is pushed in too far, the stroke of the master cylinder can be maximized before the stroke of the clutch pedal - which means that the piston of the master cylinder can’t travel any further and create additional pressure while the clutch pedal doesn’t reach the floor. If one continues pressing the clutch pedal with the master cylinder maxed out, he may start bending and twisting the shaft of the clutch pedal or round the square hole in the clutch lever.
2Gs need free play at the top of the pedal travel. If it is close to no travel and right on the edge, then it pumps up. Only 2Gs have a relief valve in the master cylinder that needs to be uncovered so fluid can go back into the reservoir on the clutch release. If not, it gets tighter and tighter and tighter. Then it may slowly relieve the pressure and it is back to normal. Just a 2G thing. You need more free play at the top of the pedal travel.
Left unchecked, the pedal will pump up more and more. The clutch will begin to slip since it is as if you are driving around with your foot on the clutch pedal. Also it plays hell on the crankshaft thrust bearings. The constant pressure pushes the clutch release bearing onto the clutch and flywheel. When centrifugal force throws the clutch release fingers outwards, they make additional pressure on the thrust bearings of the crank. This is an additional factor in short lived crankshaft release bearings and an additional potential cause for crankwalk.
The longer slave cylinder rod is installed AFTER the hydraulic system was bled with the stock rod. The slave cylinder is then unbolted, the rod is swapped for the longer one without letting any air enter the hydraulic system and as the slave cylinder is bolted back on, it increases the initial pressure inside the system - EXACTLY JUST LIKE ONE DOES BY SCREWING THE ADJUSTMENT ROD OF THE MASTER CYLINDER. Despite of some incorrect misinformation posted on another (unamed) website, the longer clutch slave cylinder rod does NOT place any higher pressure on the throw-out bearing than in the case of increasing the initial pressure with the adjustment rod of the master cylinder. Replacing the stock rod of the slave cylinder with the 1/4" longer one does THE EXACT SAME THING as increasing the initial pressure with the adjustment rod of the master cylinder - with the exception of not wasting the threads of the adjustment rod of the master cylinder in the process. As you can see, the initial pressure is increased simply by pressing the slave cylinder piston deeper inside the slave cylinder, rather than pressing the piston of the master cylinder deeper inside the master cylinder, but the results are EXACTLY the same.
but i doubt you’ll even read it you’ll just make some stupid ass comment about how i was owned (he lost too)
who the fuck invited you to this board?
:ugh:
uppity Pittracing faggots. :rolleyes:
way to fuck up yet another thread!!bans are coming :weak: :finger2:
good times… i wish i wasn’t an asswipe and would of thrown some tires on… i dind’t even think i was going to be racing… until next time :mrT: … jay and kurt didn’t whine much that night… jay accepted getting beat the one time… kurt was pissed about launching, but didn’t seem to ‘whine’ about it too much… it was a good time.
ttt, remember when we use to race? iit will happen again this summer, i promise
hope so
are trucks allowed to play? 
i remember a story of a lil boy that lived in slate lick. he was all about autoX then one day he decided to drag and since then thats all he cares about
cant wait
:boink
i stopped autocrossing in 2002 man…that was a year before i joined here
This thread made me horny.
:overyourhead: its still the story of you :booty:
i decided to because my car kept getting faster at autox but woudlnt turn any faster and i kept getting kicked out of the classes i was in but couldnt’ afford tires so i gave up.
there’s a new nova in town that my been done in 2007 ,thats just one more win for me!:boink
i think this thread is heading to the archives…