The interior was already half painted, it was in crap shape so I did a hold over till I get another interior.
All this coming from the guy who painted his car with tremclad paint, spending hours polishing it, instead of just painting it with real automotive paint. You’ll see in 6mths when the paint starts peeling and bubbling cause it’s got shitty adhesion
lool…you have a point nyce thinking…cost of the bumpercoating is 6.99. vs the 2-3 bucks more u spent on plastic paint?..think of the 60 bucks i spent on tremclad vs 320 on just supplys for real paint…big diffrence…
What do you know about the tremclad method? have u read the 100+ page thread? The guy who started this tremclad method with his beetle who lives in T.O.(same climate as where im at) has had no issues with his paint and its been 6 years…mines clear coated as well and has pearl in the paint to make it glow under the sun. Btw…its 5 month old paint and 7-9000 kms later…not a single chip on my bumper from rocks and im hard on the car. My cars paint is resistant to rusting!..Great for our jap metal cars.
Could have done the interior properly from the begining and forgot about the big hastle of swapping interiors provided ur blue dash wasnt cracked…the bumpercoating would outlast the car anyways. I did 1/2 of my beaters blue interior with this stuff and really tested the dash by scratching the shit out of it…which i couldnt without a flat.
Anyways goodluck with the car.
Speaking from experience, when I first got my new rustless hatch the first year I owned my car, I got home, just sprayed it with water, covered up the rest, picked up a rattlecan of tremclad and gave it ONE coat. I didn’t even WASH the car, much less sand, prep, do anything.
It’s still there, it still looks the same as the day I put it on nearly 2 years ago.
dude i’m just messing with you. I’ll believe you if you say your paintjob will hold up. I just needed a good comeback. If this stuff doesn’t work out than so be it. It will give me something else to do instead of sitting on my ass in front of the tv or computer. My car isn’t going to be a daily driver so it’s not going to get much wear in tear. It’s going to be a weekend driver that will be stored inside and won’t see rain or snow.
I did read a fair bit about the tremclad thread but in the end I thought it was a lot of extra work to save little money. I got a HVLP gun from princess auto for $30 and it cost me a $100 for a gallon of paint and reducer to paint my 95 pathfinder and it turned out great and I didn’t have to polish the crap out of it. But heh, each to his own.
If everyone did everything the same way, the world of car custominzing would be pretty boring, everyone would be driving he same car and we’d have nothing to talk about
duplicate
My entire truck is painted in flat black primer…
It’s just fine…
Really if it’s only temporary fix then who cares…
real or tremclad paint ur still going to have to polish it…if u want ugly orange peel ur going to be spending the same amount of time on real paint wetsanding every part of the car aswell as with tremclad paint…
Cut out the old metal patch that was in the hatch. The last guy did it as a 2 part patch because of the curve of the hatch. Anyone know of a better way to patch this to maintain the curve better? I’m not a big fan of the previous patch job.
Best is to buy a rustless one, they’re friggin cheap. It’s way too much work to do it cleanly and properly.
Waitaminute … isn’t that the mission statement for SON? 
As for your cam issue, I can tell you 99.9% for sure what happened.
SOHC KA’s have notoriously tiny oiling passageways in the head and cam.
All it takes is one tiny little piece of junk to stop the oilflow to the cam.
The KA doesn’t have cam bearings, the reeces are just milled into the head surface.
No oil, cam stops spinning, timing chain doesn’t break like a timing belt, and the cam pulley bolt either snaps, strips out, or the whole cam splits.
I think this is also why Jim Wolf sells KADE exhaust cams with the oil chamfers opened up for $800.
So if you’re going to reuse the head, make sure it is cleaned thoroughly and you make sure all the passageways are clear of debris.
Honestly there’s little point in even dissassembling the motor. A good running KAE can be found for under $100.
seems like its coming along nicely… as far as your hatch situation… unless you have lots of tolls, i’d just do the two part solution… and like i said before, if you need any welding help or anything, shoot me a pm… you don’t live far from me
Didn’t have too much time to work on it today. I decided i’m just going to buy a rustless hatch, screw all that work trying to fix the old one.
I struggled for an hour trying to get the stupid nuts that hold the bumper cover on. I have to replace it because the last guy had a tailpipe that was too short and it melted the plastic and styrofoam in the bumper. Then it dawned on me, I don’t need to keep this old bumper, why the hell am I trying so hard to get it off neatly?
SAWZALL BITCH!!! Off in 10min
//\ purdy! lol