paid 27,900 new
6 year loan at 4% so $500 a month (year 4, but made extra payments)
nothing down
owe 12K
KBB private party perfect = 21K
I’ve put well over 10K into this car since new in mods/repairs
I dont owe anything but thats becuase I make about $110 a week and im a full time student
I really wish I could afford something newer but for now s13 it is.
my mini, I owe 22xxx
kbb value $26,375
My payment is 434/mo 66 month term. Not sure of rate
07 civic si
i owe 16.9k, it is worth 19k.
[quote=“d3x,post:6,topic:40205"”]
who buys a new car, drives it for 1000 miles, then decides they dont want it anymore? that had to be one very expensive 1000 miles.
[/quote]
I bet I know someone around here that would do that :uhh:
When you’re doing “excellent” or “good” condition you’re only teasing yourself. Fair condition is what you should be looking at.
06 Cobalt SS S/C
60 month 4.75%
bought for 25700
Traded in my brothers wrecked 1983 Olds for 300 bucks.
Sold my brother my cavalier for the difference of the monthly payments if i traded it in. He pays me the difference monthyl for the next 5 years.
I owe around 18k on the loan
KBB private party of 19205-excellent 18100-good
if memory serves me right those values are actually up some from 6 months ago.
[quote=“Rx3,post:25,topic:40205"”]
I bet I know someone around here that would do that
[/quote]
who? me? :lol:
1992 Mustang: KBB says in “Fair” condition $2975
I paid $2500 cash for it and put more than I care to know into it. so yeah I’m in the hole there for sure.
2003 Jeep Wrangler X: Excellent condition (I’d say mine is) $14,405
without doing the exact math, I figure i just paid about $10,000 for it, so I could easily make money on it.
99 Pontiac trans am 30th
60 month loan at 9%
Vehicle purchased for $12,000
Owe $9,300
NADA Vehicle Value = AVG. Retail $22,925
2001 Audi S4
Worth $16,000 ish
36 Month Loan @ 6.9%
Owe $3,700
Neither of my vehicles are affected by this problem, both worth a lot more than loan balances for their whole terms, and it doesnt take a huge down payment to do that. The Vipers (now) are affected for the first year, then they stabilize, and GC SRT-8’s as a whole seem to be immune to this.
Pretty sure that when I went to look at the above mentioned Jeep the tag was 14K? How’d you talk them down 4 grand on a car that they were supposedly giving you 12K toward???
Also how’d you talk the guy who sold you the Mustang down from 3800?? You must be one hell of a smooth talker.
FOR THE LAST TIME KBB IS NOT ACCURATE…
edmunds or black book is accurate and is what dealerships use to determine the value of the car prior to seeing it…
kelly blue book is a joke
STOP USING KBB
edit; i hate when people bring in there kbb print-offs and it says there 2001 venture is worth 5400 in good condition when it is really only worth 2500 MAX… and you have to look like an ass telling them that KBB does not write the check for the car, the auction does… and edmunds is closer to what auctions give people…
KBB is accurate, edmunds use KBB… NADA is what banks used
when you trade your car in the dealership will only give you 16…
not saying your car is not worth 19, but you see a dealership can only give a costomer what the auction will pay for it…
the last thing i will say about this is take kbb and throw it out the window…
Dont throw out the book just take it with a grain of salt, its a starting point and nothing more
nada reports is what Edmund’s is based off of…
kbb is a private website with very little validity, and one of the biggest problems is people will bring in there private party value into a dealership and expect that for a trade because 99.9% of people think that a dealership is just going to put a price tag back on the trade of 3000 more then what they took it in for and try to turn a profit that way… the truth is 99.9% of the shit that is taken in on trade just takes up space in the back lot until an auctioneer purchases it from us for what we took it in at or sometimes even less, the fact is that most of the time a dealership will take the initial hit on the costumers trade to make up the lost money in back end financing…
you really don’t know what your talking about… I do this on a daily basis. :deadhorse:
edit: moral of story, unless your a die hard domestic fan and you will drive it till it shits the bed go purchase a product that will retain its value… because domestics just dont… sorry guys :tdown:
i use NADA because they have specialty vehicle pricing…
Correct. KBB doesn’t take into consideration the fact that every vehicle traded in needs reconditioning and sometimes UVE’s can cost dealerships thousands of dollars per car.