Talk to me about clear floor coating.

I want to make a small section of flooring from barn wood. I have a massive amout of tounge and grove barn wood to use. There is no way I can just leave it the way it is.
I do plan on coating all of it with polyurathane to seal it, BUT I want to give it a clear deep coating like a bar top finish.

What do I use? Went with high build poly.
This is what I started with
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t4/87conquestTSi/CameraZOOM-20111223154022440.jpg

This is No poly
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t4/87conquestTSi/CameraZOOM-20120120165041424.jpg

One coat of poly
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t4/87conquestTSi/CameraZOOM-20120120205108941.jpg

Finished product
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t4/87conquestTSi/CameraZOOM-20120122202834215.jpg

If you want it to just LOOK deep, just use 3-4 coats of a good high gloss floor polyurethane. Whether you go water based or oil based depends how durable you need it to be. Water based for regular foot traffic, oil for higher traffic or dogs etc etc. If oil based is what you choose, don’t buy the “high solids” poly in a gallon. It’s miserable to work with and is pretty soft. My stores carry a high solvent formula which is very durable and easy to work with. We just coated Pearl St Grill’s new rooms in the Webb building and will be selling the same for the floors on the Lafayette Tap Room.

If you want an actual thick coating, you’re looking at a 2 part epoxy in clear. It’s going to be more durable but isn’t going to touch up very well and recoating is going to be troublesome.

One thing to keep in mind is that old barn wood is going to be soft. Don’t be shocked if you drop something on it and it dents even through the poly or epoxy. You’re putting a hard shell over soft wood, it’s not going to be bulletproof. If you’ve got a big dog with nails you’ll probably have scratching issues. Just an FYI.

Any other questions just ask.

I have a boxer I plan to have a all weather carpet over it. I would deffently need a 2 part epoxy. Its roughly a 4x6 area. Worst comes to worse I tear it up and try something else.
Is there a 2 part I can get local at homo depot or lowe’s?

hmm, i’m not sure if they carry a clear you’ll have to check it out. It’ll be designed for garage floors.

I seen table top 2 part, but I wasn’t sure if I could use in on a floor area.

Nope, can’t be walked on.

What is used on gym floors?
Google is giving me different anwsers.

Product called gymseal. There’s only 1 dealer as far as I know in the area. They own a business called Allcourt Floor Restoration, Chris and Alan are their names. You can call and try to buy it from them. They’re super nice guys tell them Ryan from Schuele (pronounced Shooley) recommended them.

Their contact info : http://www.allthenewyork.com/Local/New_York/Clarence/Flooring+Contractor+%26+Furniture/all-court-floor-restoration_11673424

Thanks man! I’ll see what they think about what I’m trying to do and see what they say.
I appreciate the help.

good thread! interesting info

Alright, I think I may have found something that I can use.
I found
This
I planned on sealing the wood before hand anyway with some polyurathane anyway.

Thought?

I’d be concerned with the statement, “Easily repaired with a high speed burnisher and a soft floor pad. If you desire a more resistant finish we suggest “Commercial” wood finish.” It sounds like it’s not super durable so when your dogs feet scratch it you’ll be buffing it. I’d suggest going with a regular poly because it’ll be more durable and you can lightly scuff it, clean it, and recoat every few years instead of buffing every 6 months.

Be very careful with what you seal it with if you do choose this product. By the looks of the tech sheet you’ll want a water based sanding sealer. In the wood finishing world varnish, polyurethane and shellac are not compatible without a barrier coat.

Fuck it, I’ll seal the wood and lay pelxi over it. :stuck_out_tongue:

So I should just find a high build poly then and stick with one brand of that?

Yeah, I would just polyurethane it and don’t sweat it anymore. I tell all of my customers to try not to reinvent the wheel here. Polyurethane works for 90% of every other home in America, it’ll be fine in your house. I would highly suggest getting a gloss though if you want that deep look. Also don’t forget, don’t buy the HIGH SOLIDS poly. You’ll thank me if you ever try it on a floor.

This is just 1 coat sealer, 2 coats of gloss oil polyurethane on my black hardwood floor. It looks 10 feet deep but it’s 3 thin coats put on with a lambswool pad. It’s been 2 years and the only dulling of the finish is right at the edge where you turn the corner to go from the stairs to the hallways. I’ll lightly scuff it and recoat it this spring and it’ll look brand new again. I’ve got a 40lb beagle with pads like sandpaper and there’s no damage to the floor at all.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v186/ieatpaint315/floor.jpg

This is what the wood will look like. It looks like I’m going to have to plane (proper term?) 1/4’’ off so It will clear the door.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t4/87conquestTSi/IMG_20111213_234237.jpg

You’re supposed to do the door. not the floor. unless that’s what you meant lol

Thanks IeatPiant for the help, Turned out great!

:tup:didnt turn out great, it turned out awesome. did you use a floor sander at all?

thats actually how the floors would look in my parents house if i could convince them to get rid of the carpets and coat it instead.

what product did you use? looks like you got exactly what you wanted, nice job.

I wire brushed the wood free of dirt and mold ect.
blew it out with the air compressor, dryed it all in the wood stove room then hit it with miniwax sealer.
Then just layed on 3 coats of mini wax high build poly. 220 light sand between coats. I even have some old school roofing nail to fill in the big holes.