I would recommend an e36, 24 valve engines are robust, the chassis is fairly stiff, the brakes are good with proper pads, LSD rears are plentiful and cheap if not already in the car, they can get down to 2500 lbs still in street trim.
They do have negatives like the sub frames need reinforcing, can anybody else name negatives?
You will destroy the brakes on that 540i even with pads and fluid. There are a number of 3 series, prepared or otherwise, available local. Purchase one, drive it till the lifters start to tick, change oil, repeat.
Ive always thought that a gutted e30 with an m50 would be an awesome, cheap track car
^^TRUTH
i track the roush and always have had full weight, not one thing removed (probably added weight from stock) and its a blast. sure it has a TON of other mods, but when i first started tracking it (way back in the Dunnville days) i only did pads and ATE supeblue. stock tires, stock everything else.
do that a few times and see how you like it, removing your seats and panels and whatever else will make absolutely no difference to you the first handful of times you track the car. you should be focusing more on driving line, corner speed yadda yadda anyway and 20 lbs here and there wont make any difference to you whatsoever, maybe a couple tenths on a stopwatch
so try it out and then go from there. maybe pick an already modded track oriented daily that someone is selling that might handle better and be better track prepped after you try it out
Trust what this guy says.
I’m in a similar situation with my GTO. I enjoy track days and all that I do to the car for prep is carbotech XP12 pads and either ATE blue or gold fluid (same specs, changing color just makes flushing from one to the other easier). It’s fun, I have a blast, but being a heavy platform with decent power (3800lbs/400hp) if you drive it 8/10ths or more it destroys brakes and tires. If I was ever going to become a serious lapper I’d buy something lighter. I love RWD dynamics so an E30 stripped and gutted would be ideal but I’m just not that serious a lapper. For the one or two events I do a year I’m fine blowing through a set of brake pads so I can still have a car I love to drive on the street.
Are you racing, or are you doing track days?
If you are racing, you will want to build your car according to the rules of the series in which you intend to compete.
If you’re just going to do on-track gym class, then you’ll want to focus on safety - brakes, seats, harnesses, a cage, fire extinguisher, a good SNELL approved helmet, etc . . . . from there, just learn to develop smoothness - you will be fast if you spend time early on going slow and learning about weight transfer.
These cars are pigs for the track. Agree with the above: sell the 540i, buy an IanK style 328i, gut it, brakes and tires, go have fun. Then you won’t even care if you crash it.
Nice realistic post, you have to be dedicated to gut a car, and you have to dedicated to the sport to get the use out of it. A 540 would be way down on value after gutting, or alot of work to replace the interior
This is against my recommendation but this thread has a cool e39 M5 race car build, but $$$. I know, its an M5, not 540, but it is e39
Track videos embedded in thread, or search Hard Motorsports M5 on Youtube
I feel like certain cars that seem to be the best car to use like a miata or an E30… I’m just not into the looks. The 540i I have has 250k on it so I doubt it will ever be worth anything anyways, and if I remove certain things with care maybe they will be able to go back in without ruining them. So if I were to gut this car i feel it’s not going to take anything away from its resale value. Hell if it loses value by that much I can part it out and probably come out ahead or at least even. I wouldn’t mind an e36, but it looks dated to me, I’d like a 3 series coupe of the body style my e39 is but that’s more money then this car.
Also when I say race I’m talking track days, maybe I mislead people, but I’d like to have fun lapping with other drivers, and maybe if I love it ill try to do more and more of it.
having done numerous track days as well as going with a ton of other people, just start with the basics- pads, brake fluid, maybe tires if yours are spanked and go from there. i would wait til you do it at least once before you waste your time removing things from your car. trust me, you wont notice that much of a difference. figure out the lines, braking zones, cornering etc and then worry about picking up some seconds here and there.
that being said Niagara PCA is a great club to start doing events with and there is plenty of instructors to give you guidance and you can work your way up the groups as you gain experience
throw some D’s on it!
But for real, OP, I am saying this partially because Im a Miata guy and partially because its the dam truth…Start with a Miata. Or car that is similar to one as others have already explained. You’ll thank us later.
after reading all of this I’d say just get some good pads and flush the brakes with superblue then sign up for a PCA or BMWCCA event. You’ll go and either find it’s not for you or fall in love and realize you need a different car. You’lll have fun no matter what.
For the rest of the people in here who have done track days, let’s be honest, the first one is 90% you getting yelled at to get back on the race line and point the train of cars behind you to pass.
If you want a cheap “clean” car.
stop asking everyones opinions and just start racing. lol good pads and rotors, with good fluid. freshen up the suspension and go have some fun. your not trying to do a 24 hour leMans here. just a once in a while thing. ps, i have all the engine covers at my shop still.
That’s the plan! Yeah I’ll have to grab the engine covers from you soon!
^^^ if you ever need random 540i parts shoot me a PM. i have a shit ton of stuff, random little things laying around that i won’t been needing anymore.
Bought some slightly used hawk hp plus pads for the front brakes, now just need rear pads and super blue fluid!
HP plus isn’t an “all out” track pad. You’ll be fine you first few track days in any case, just be aware that this is something that can be improved on.
See page 18, optimal range only up to 600*:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf
I’d go with carbotech pads personally. I’ve seen some decent hawk pads essentially disintegrate.