FS: Civic EK Hatch (56k: get DSL you cheap bastards)

The time has come to part with my hatch.
$3500 get you all of the following:

[FONT=Arial]1996 Honda Civic DX Hatchback
[/FONT]B20B block from 98 CRV
B18C1 head from 94 GSR
Golden Eagle LSvtec swap kit
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
CTR Crank Pully
DC Adjustable Timing Gears
Lightspeed 4-1 Header
Catco Highflo Catalytic Converter
1995 JDM SIRII 5 Speed Transmission with LSD
Exedy 8lb Flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch and Pressure Plate
KYB AGX Adjustable Struts
Ground Control Coilovers (380lb front/ 300lb rear)
Rear Brake Disc Swap from 94 GSR
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
Summit Racing Cross-drilled Rotors
99 Si Brake Proportioning Valve
Summit Racing Remote Oil Filter Relocator (Puts 2 Fram PH8 Filters in front bumper and increases capacity to 6.5 quarts)
Ebay 1" Aluminum Radiator
94 GSR Cloth Seats
98 EX Gauge Cluster
Custom made short throw long shifter (like fastline road race shifter)
Sabelt Racing Harness
P28 OBD1 Chipped ECU with Moates Ostrich Emulator running Crome
OBD2->OBD1 Conversion Harness
Eclipse 2000 MP3 Head Unit
Eclipse 6" Point Source Speakers
Eclipse Amplifier
Eclipse 8812.4 12" Subwoofer in custom enclosure
99 Si Front End Conversion

  • Hood
  • Fenders
  • Grille
  • Bumper
  • Headlights (Ebay Projectors)
    2002 Si 15" Wheels - Painted Bronze (Duplicolor Wheel Paint)
    Kuhmo Supra 712’s - 205/55/15 Brand New
    Rear Windows Tinted 30%
    Optima Yellow Top Deep Cycle Battery
    Ebay Short Ram Intake

I am including all of my parts for this car:
Garret T3 Super 60 Turbo
Exhaust Elbow with O2 Sensor
TurboXS Ramhorn Manifold
DSM 450cc Bluetop Injectors with Clips
DSM Blow Off Valve with pipe
OEM Honda Mid Wing kit - complete with template, mounting screws, and new hatch struts
Ebay CTR Front Strut Tower Brace
98 Ex Front Sway Bar with new endlinks
1 set of 13" steel wheels
1 set of 14" steel wheels[FONT=Arial]
B-series oil pan tapped for turbo with a new OEM gasket as well.

[/FONT]There is more misc stuff, but I can’t remember what it is right now. The car was in an accident last year, and I took it to a Honda dealership to fix everything. The car was originally red, but after the accident, I had it sprayed black. The paint is chipping in a few spots - could use a respray. There are the standard rust spots on the rear quarter pannels on both sides. It will need ball joints at some point in the near future, but is perfectly driveable as is. It was broken into last year, and my stereo stuff was stolen - resulting in the broken molding around the heater vents. I had much more expensive stereo equipment in there before, but just replaced it with cheap stuff so that it works. The sub enclosure was assembled in the car, so it will take some work to remove. It is very solid and sturdy, and can support a ton of weight. I built the car to autocross, and it did it’s job well. Everything came together to make a wonderful race car. However - because of the OBD1 computer, it will not pass NYS Emissions inspection. 200k miles on the body, about 15k miles on all of the swap items. I did all of the work over last summer (and I did a lot of walking while the car was completely torn apart).
[FONT=Arial]The SRS light is on because I accidentally pulled the fuse for it (I was looking for the radio fuse and pulled the SRS one). It needs to be reset by the dealer, which I can do before pickup if necessary. The LSD is acting funny.[/FONT] In the early fall I ended up breaking the clutch disc (broke a spring on the hub), so I had to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate with another Exedy Stage 1 (which sucked, because the old one looked brand new still, except for the broken spring). An axle seal was damaged during the repair, so I replaced it. But I think since I am not running OEM Honda transmission fluid, it is causing the LSD to act funny, and I get a little grind going into 5th if the RPMs are too high (which double clutching will solve). I’ve heard issues with running Royal Purple in transmissions (after I filled it). I had never had any issues with it in the past. The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the transmission has a crack on the mounting tab that has been JB Welded back together. It still functions perfectly. You can buy a new housing for at from the dealer for about $30.[FONT=Arial] The Intake Manifold[/FONT] has a crack on it during installation - along the far driver’s side edge. It isn’t near the coolant channels at all, so a little JB Weld sealed it air tight. The inner fender cover on the front passenger side is half missing (the front half). It was never replaced after the accident, and I didn’t notice it until it was long after the repair. I just never took it back to get it fixed, mostly because I thought it would be a good place to hide a DSM sidemount intercooler anyway. There is no cover for the timing belt. The B20 cover doesn’t fit, and I never got around to getting the B18C covers.
[FONT=Arial]
This is not a show car. It isn’t spotless. It’s greasy. My wiring job isn’t the prettiest in the world. But it works. That was the intention of this car - to race. He just needs someone to finish off the details and make him a champion.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial]One of the reasons that it wouldn’t pass NYS inspection is because the block is missing the Crank Fluctuation Sensor (CFK) - JDM motors don’t have them. I bought a brand new US oem oil pump, and I have the sensor, and will include them in the auction. I never bothered installing it because I picked up the GSR head, and it runs like shit (barely at all) on a stock ecu[/FONT], so I knew that I was never going to bother running on an OBDII ecu. I also have an OBDII P75, as well as the stock DX ecu that you will get with it.

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Dammit, wrong forum. Mods - please move to Autotrader.

thats one big shifter where’d you get it from … a semi. glws car looks to be in decent shape.

edit: you need to put a cobra head on it or something dope like that i bet it would sell faster then

For real, that shifter is fucking huge. And weird looking.

But either way, GLWS!!!

It’s a custom made job. I modeled it after the Fastline Performance shifter, but I didn’t feel like paying $150 for it. It is longer below the pivot point as well, so it is way shorter than stock, while it’s position is perfect. I really miss having it when driving the WRX.

hey… i’ve seen you in front of bell hall…

Holy Dildo shifter. Why dont you clean teh car up a bit, I bet it would help with teh sale.

A little more shifter info - it’s like this, only homemade:
http://fastlineperformance.com/shifter.htm

No, we get it but why didnt you put a kink in it? It looks like your fist might hit the eject button on the radio?

Ohhhhhh, OBD-1 not good. GL.

There is a kink in it - right at the top of the shift boot. No, your knuckle won’t hit the radio.

OBD1 for necessity. How else was I supposed to tune the b20/vtec?

holy long FS thread, talk about full disclosure!

GLWS Jim. :tup:

I am not trying to cheat anyone here. And I would want someone to do the same for me when I buy a car.

damn not a bad price for everything GLWS. wanna part with any of the turbo stuff?

I am still hoping that someone will be kind enough to come to my house and take everything all at once. If that doesn’t happen soon, then I will start the parting process.

owww if only all my cars were sold!

what kind of cars to u have?

i thought u were buyin tonys u ass lol

how much for 14’ steel wheels??

Is that my old head? :headbang:

GLWS Jim.