I rock 2 sets of Sportiva HID bulbs/ballasts for headlights/foglights. (6k slim for headlights/ regular for fogs.)
If your installing them in reg housings then please for the love of god dont. Projectors on the other hand are fine as long as you dont melt them.
Sportiva kits are about 50$ a set and I’ve never had any problems with them. Never shorted out a ballast or blown a bulb. My buddy blew through like 3 different kids before installing a sportiva kit to end up with no issues. Just as a suggestion, brand wise, you should use sportiva if you want to go cheap and still get great quality.
Projectors are the best for HID’s, sure. But some reflector type housings can also utilize HID’s without having glare effect. They are just harder to find (good ones) so a projector retrofit is recommended to get the best output.
G8’s rock stock Halogen projects, which can be modded to use HIDs by eliminating squirrel spotters. But even if you don’t do that putting HIDs in Halogen projectors isn’t too bad. I’d rather come head on to that then the stupid FUCKS with lifted trucks and HID headlights AND FOG LIGHTS (those are seriously the worst)
I’ve notice GM foglights with HIDs are the worst, worse then the Headlights with HIDs.
This is why I stopped feeling like an asshole driving around with HIDs. My accord’s headlights are low to the ground. If some of the stray light hits other drivers, its not so bad compared to pickups that have the center of their beams at eye level. Also the foglights on ford super duty’s are pretty bad as well.
I mean yes to remove whole headlight I have to remove bumper but I might get away with just taking tire off and removing the wheel well a little bit. IDK I havent really looked yet, theres a ton of people using this kit with their g8’s so I have no worry about anything really lol
I have to remove all my splash shield as well to get to mine. Some guys dropped the bumper.
As for the trucks comment above…HOLY CRAP. Absolutely agree. Those guys should be getting ticketed left and right. The amount of glare they produce is worse than any rice rocket with HID’s on this planet. The front windshield tint I have helps with that a little, but still. That should be illegal sure.
If anyone on this forum has a truck with HID’s like that…well…you’re a freakin dick and I hope you get dozens of tickets. :lol
I have DDM kit installed on my G8 highs and lows both are 55w. You do not have to take off the bumper and you do not need a wiring harness. The bulbs from the factory are 55w… Also since our lows are DRLs they will flicker (HID) on and off because that is how DRLs work, you will need a capacitor so they wont flicker…
You’re a new member and all…but what? Hate to correct you…but I need to make some corrections. I’ve been round the block when it comes to lighting (have had custom retrofits, harnesses, etc.).
55w halogens are NOT the same as 55w HID’s. 55w HID’s are WAY hotter than 55w halogens.
Put your hand over a headlight with a halogen bulb and you may feel some heat. Put your hand over a headlight with a 55w HID bulb in there and you will feel much more. Do the same on the fog light and you will end up with a nice blister burn after touching a fog light that is running a 55w HID bulb. Hell, you might even burn your hand with one running 35w (depending on the construction of the light assembly).
This is why 55w is not recommended in the fog lights. On many cars, specifically those with plastic lenses, it will crack the lens or burn the inside.
Also…if you are experiencing flickering issues…you DO need a harness. Do you know what the harness does? It connects your power for the kit directly to the battery…thus giving it more ‘juice’ on startup. The reason why it flickers is because a lot of OEM wiring can’t handle the initial draw. I have this issue on my Infiniti. Got the harness, no more startup problems.
A capacitor, when it comes to car lighting, is typically used on LED bulbs when applied to the side markers/turn signals. This prevents the ‘rapid blinking’ that happens when using such a bulb in such an application.
Also, temperature is different than wattage… A 55W halogen draws the same power as a 55W HID… except when starting up! When the HID lamp initially lights it draws over 55W. I would recommend a relay and direct/fused battery connection.
Thanks :lol. I think OP may have meant resistor as well.
The current draw is the same, but the temperature given off by a HID bulb (especially 55w) is much higher than one given off by a conventional halogen bulb. That is what I was trying to say/convey.
Heres the kit 6,000k 35w low beams, 3,000k 25w fog…
Heres my access point to the lights, only other way was taking bumper off.
had to take cold air intake out to get to the lights because the intake comes with a box that gets air from down near the fog light and is sealed when hood is shut. anyways heres a pic after that is out
Finished product, I still have to open it all back up and aim the driver side fog light a little more downward and put some dielectric grease on some of the connections and cover them up a little better.
Halogen projector cutoff shields can some times have holes in them for wider output of light since a halogen bowl is usually a different shape and light output between the two different bulbs is placed in different spots of the projector (source of light inside the projector), the “squirrel spotters” can output differently between halogen bulb and HID bulb. Not all halogen projectors have this.
but it looks like this
and output will end up like this
Halogen projectors from all Japanese cars tend to have these “squirrel spotters”
You close them up by moving the metal prong in front of it to close the hole IIRC
