that sounds sick. im pretty damn good at body work and kevin is in ECC for autobody so he can spray. if you want i can take a look at the car and go from there. go across from hybrid over to AL WILL paint supply and pick out some colors you would be interested in and let me know, i can figure out cost and whatnot.
awesome, are you good at repairing the rust holes?
^ lol, wow thats lots of jobs haha. i can do rust holes, i now have a welder and such. paint i have never used a real gun before but i have one now, and plan on getting a little practice it. i can spray primer just fine, i have to try a basecoat on a car or object that doesnt matter first. and kevin doesnt feel comfortable doing the bimmer cause he knows if there is ANY defect it may not get recieved too well. lol.
Hybrid loves triangulation…
are you planning on painting the car with the engine out?
yes. car will be painted as a roller. subframes and suspension components will pe powdercoated, then chassis painted. car will be running, then re-stripped and painted.
not gonna be too much room for a passenger seat
shifter looks like its going to be pretty far back
i must say that in person the body isent as bad as it looks in the pics haha
Looks good. Good job.
why did you remove the steering wheel?
looking good :tup: is this going to be a street car? Going sleeper?
Alright, since don posted the pictures, i will explain them.
The first thing i did when i arrived was make the rest of the bolting tabs for the transmission mount. These were fabricated from 1/4 X 1 1/4 HRS flat stock. There were a total of four. The center plate is 10GA Mild steel. I obtained some 1 X 1 X 11GA square tube to use for the frame.
The next step was to fix the rear passenger transmission mount point. As you can see in this old picture, one of the mounting bolt holes (upper right) was removed to to allow for clearance of the differential.
The manner in which the floor was cut allowed access to the area near where the nut had been, so i simply drilled a hole and tacked a nut in place. I then sprayed everything with primer to prevent rusting. Done.
Next, I fabricated the front of the transmission support. This support is also an integral chassis member, as a substantial amount of rigidity has been lost when the formed tunnel was removed. Since there will be substantial stress on the member, it was important to have it bolt to a substantial support. The solution was to weld 7GA plate on the inside of the chassis. The location of the plates is such that the outside edge of the support is actually welded to the “frame rails” of the car. The steel is a pain in the ass to weld on, and welds like crap. I am not the best welder, or even decent, but there is something in the chassis that makes it very “spattery”. I cleaned the metal VERY thoroughly.
On the passenger’s side, the floor was very solid. This is the plate i welded in:
On the driver’s side, the floor had been compromised a bit more by rust, so i used two plates. A slight bend was required and with no brake in sight, i used a seam as opposed to a bend. Before tacking these in place, I used a wire wheel to grind off ALL the rust underneath the plates. I still need grind off the undercoating before welding it. I started laying a bead and almost asphyxiated. Photo of the driver’s side:
Next, i simply just welded up the frame. Some slight changes had to be made from the initial plan. These changes allow for better clearance, both ground and transmission. I still need to weld on two more braces that tie the mounting points together fore and aft. Here are pictures:
Engine is nice and straight:
View from the front:
View from the rear:
View from underneath:
Some research yielded information about driveshaft angles. The motor was moved up slightly from it’s original position to allow for a closer driveline angle. The rear differential may need some slight shimming so it points upwards slightly more, but all in all, it is very close to perfect.
Answers to questions:
Not true, you can see the front seat mounting stud is actually behind the differential
Shifter is about .75 to 1" back from stock location
Steering wheel removal was required for dash removal. I kept hitting my head on it, so i took it off. It wasn’t even bolted on, just placed on the spline to allow the car to be moved.
Looks damn good. Where are you guys building this? Any planned dates for when its running?