traction for final season runs

I called both summit and jegs and the best summit came up with was this

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTT-3052&N=700+115&autoview=sku

which I could drive to Ohio and pick up tomorrow so I have them for this weekend.

jegs came up with the same tire for 3 bucks more.

does anyone sell blems? that I could pick up cheap because I really shouldent be spending 300 bucks right now.

I have tires that could yeld me 2.0 60’ times but I have enough power to burn them off at the line so the car has better than a 2.0 in it for sure.

thoughts/sugestions.

Running a full slick is going to hurt your MPH and stability…

You should try MT ET drag radials next year on another set of rims…

14-15psi works well…

Inb4iblewmytrannyversion3

what size rim do you have?

do that make that size in the in the C subcode, deff get that compond if you can. if not get a hoosier quicktime pro would be the next best slick for you.

if you can setup up to the 3053c there fucking bad ass. I ran them.
can you run a 28" 3055c fucking rules too.

[quote=FormulaLS1;722642]Running a full slick is going to hurt your MPH and stability…

[quote]

I never had that happen? I hear people say that, maybe its a internet racing only thing?

“Stability” will be affected because of the side wall stiffness compared to the non driven wheels. The simple version…For tires mounted for a RWD car = oversteer (Cf > Cr), for FWD = understeer (Cf < Cr).

First learn to quote…

…do 100mph on a Full Slicks, ET Street, Drag radial…The drag radial WILL have the best stability…

I think you may be the nuttiest person I’ve ever known when it comes to their car and how much money/time you will devote into it…

As far as the slick comment goes, I think matters on how fast the car is. I’ve seen the drop in mph on several 12 and 13 second cars…obviously not much on faster ones as they need the sticky tire mush more. I remember in my experiences with going from slicks to radials the differnece was upwards of 2 mph slower with the slick, but the ET improved.

I don’t care much about trap speed, honestly i’m more interested in ET. my reasoning for this is I can’t come close to many of the other SHO guys because I would have to be faster than 120+ to be a contendor. I simply don’t have enough power. Is this tire major overkill? Idealy I will be launching at 14psi at the engines first torque peak (yes there is 2) then locking the TC when it shifts into second.

do you have to run a tube in slicks or does it just help stabability a bit.

It helps stability…but what do I know just listen to Studderin :lol:

Locking the TC in 2nd? Sounds fun…I thought most people lock it in 3rd to bring the RPMs back down…

That tire can definitely hook…but I also think an aggressive drag radial like the MT DR would suit you just as well. This is assuming you can get both tires nice and HOTTTTTTTTTT…if not you’re wasting your time and money.

I will lock it near the top of second at about 6K to bring it back into my torque band and if I rember I will lower my shift point to 6500 so it shifts around 7K instead of 7500 or when ever it feals like shifting.

Slicks drop MPH because it took you less time to get down the track so you couldn’t get up to the same speed.

Can you tie down your rear suspension like the GTP guys do?

we used the poly spring blocks before, made a real nice improvement, IIRC they jam between 2 full rotations of the coil

the back end of the car hardly dropped at all w/ them in there. but we only had autox slicks on the front that day, and i dont think the pressure was all that low in them either (i want to say 25 or 30?)

alex, just run the autox slicks again, they hooked real good … and i really want a video of your car rolling to the line on 18 inch aluminium rims, then ripping off a monster burn out … maybe this time we can get the anti-taurus comments on film :slight_smile:

i didnt even think this thing broke traction to need slicks.

~layzie

on full boost launches it will definantly break traction, always has

but at the same time, your also kinda right, it doesnt have serious traction problems, but thats mostly because its an automatic, and because for some odd reason the open diff is good at putting power down to both wheels, if one tire is spinning the other is spinning too. both front tires always seam to lay down equal length patches

stock diff your be fine. Ive gotten low 1.7s on mine. gtp best is a 1.31

Yes!!! My hero!