Oh, forgot the pic:
The car is good to 180+ but like I said, I dont care for higher speeds in this car on public roads.
I was doing 165 one time in :snky: on :snky: highway and all was well till the brakes where needed, wow that was the worst amount of shaking I ever felt.
note to any wanting to go fast, make sure your pads are good and rotors not wraped before high speed runs :lolsign:
good thing it was about 3 in the morning and kind of in the middle of almost no where
i’ve topped the SHO out many times, when you get over 110 you can feal the car begin to lower from downforce, and if you open the sunroof (just the back) you can feal the whole car squat. the SHO is solid at 140 but my saturn is squarly at 110
Opening the sunroof does NOT increase downforce, it increases drag. It’s identical to opening the flaps on an airplane wing.
man… that makes me miss my lincoln
@ 65 (I believe thats what the threshold was) it would lower itself about an inch for fuel economy/better aerodynamics
@ 80-90 it felt like you were crusing at 40 
300zx TTs and Z06s must have pretty good downforce without wings because GSX and I cruised at 150 for about 12 miles and did a roll from 40-165/70 and both cars felt glued to the ground. Once you are over 130 or so it didnt feel any different to me as far as the speed. The mental thought of going that fast after you have done it is scarier then actually doing it. You definetly need alot of room. When I drove ZphatZs car and had to slow down fairly quickly from 140 the car got a little happy but nothing too crazy. The bottom line is to do it in the safest enviroment possible but preferably a track because there is no time to react at those speeds should something come up in your lane or field of view.
I’ve been to a gear-verified 140mph in a Neon. That was scary. It was like riding on a rattly cloud.
totaly different concept but thanks for playing.
You are a fucking idiot if you think your sunroof increases downforce.
Real Neon. 1st gen for life. The tires were rated to handle the speeds. Stock tires on a non-ACR or R/T were rated to 118 (the speed limiter on the ECU as well) and for the ACR (non-95) or R/T models, the tires were rated to 130, which again, was the ECU speed limiter. [/neon geekiness]
Now, it wasn’t safe at ALL, but at least the tires were fine. What is more worrying is the amount of lift the car generates over 100. Sketchy shit.
Edit: For clarity, it wasn’t on stock tires. Pretty sure they were Azenis or similar.
ive been on a bike speedo indicated at 182… which is most likely 170 actual, the gps pulled 169.7, i’ve had the 954 speedo read 192, but that was only 150 gps’ed, a bike and a car are 2 different worlds though, the bike gets to 170 in about 15-20 secs, and i feel i can stop better with it under good conditions…
150+…Dos, WTF are you planning? The fastest I’ve had my car up to was 145. I had 2 other people in the car at the time and this was before I put on the mods. The car was stock except for the Borla exhaust. I can’t stress enough that having good brakes in a situation like that is a BIG plus.
Whatever / whenever you do decide to go over 150, please either do it alone, or ask your passenger whether or not he minds…
Excellent advise. In my case the passenger’s in my car were egging me on to go faster. It was my decision once I saw 145 on the speedo to back off the throttle. The scary thing is the car felt extremely solid and now I’ve got a lot of suspension mods and a few performance mods and I haven’t tried again. I’d like to get out to an empty airfield or some place deserted like that and do a top speed run rather than try to rip 150 on some street or highway and risk ANYONES life other than my own.
if the roof of the car is shapped in a way that would (in and of itself) create lift, opening the sunroof will create a small disturbance in the airflow, breaking the lifting force on the roof
removing left creates more usable downfoce
I would NEVER go that fast in a vehicle that I hadn’t THOROUGHLY gone over the suspension and drivetrain. Stuff like making sure the wheel nutz are corectly torqued, all the suspension parts are bolted on securely, U-joints in good shape, belts, etc. Of course, tires and wheels in good condition and suitable for high speed are also a must.
I bought a new Honda 1000cc sportbike back in the 80’s and didn’t check it over. After driving it a couple of hundred miles I noticed that the front brake felt a little funny. Pulled over to check it and found that the caliper was so loose it was ready to fall off. If it had, it could easily have gotten wedged and locked the front wheel. The bolts had never been tightened properly.
Now, I check everything on any verhicle I acquire. My race car gets gone over frequently and the Camaro once a year.
Rich
This is what happens at 200 mp 
http://www.clubimports.net/modules.php?name=Video&op=view&video_id=296
No, removing lift does NOT create downforce. You are dealing with drag. 95% of the cars on the road do not create downforce, a SHO certainly doesnt. You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.
Lift and downforce are perpendicular to velocity, where drag is parallel (aka slowing force). I can see what he means by it, because the drag does want to force it down at a given speed
(invision your hand out the window of a car @ 60 miles an hour… straight it cuts thru the air… turn it at a 45* angle and it wants to force it down, and back)