Purchased this sexy piece of machinery for $950 yesterday. The body and frame are in impressive shape - and its dirty like nobody’s business.
The basic jist of the project:
KA24DE swap
S13 rear end
Stripped interior
New suspension, wheels etc.
Fancy Datsun Metallic Blue paint
Sweet. I am a huge fan of those cars. Keep us updated on the project
Well I’ll definately be posting more pictures and such as things progress. I’m kinda poor at the moment, but I hope to have it ready to go for the spring…guess we’ll see how things go.
i was going to buy this thing, would be an awesome project. hope to see some good things 
He ain’t kidding…
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b68888271
I want to get one and set it all up
Aaah Dro you so have to put those mirror’s on Datsun.
u better have deep pockets to buy an original/ good condition datsun from japan. old school skyline gtr`s are up for 20-40 grand.
Nice :E my uncle is sending me a 69 510 because he doesnt want it anymore … can anyone say sr20 510
Nice find. Let me know if you need any info, I did or had a hand in doing pretty much all the mods on my car. Why do you want the S13 rear end?
Trevor.
Can handle more power (apparently), and it comes with VSLD and disc brakes.
The stock R160 is plenty strong enough for a NA KA24 and if more strength is required the R180 or R200’s bolt straight in. They are all available in mutiple ratios open or LSD and are easy to find (Z’s, ZX’s, front diffs on 4x4’s, Subaru even uses them).
Disc brake coversions are also easy to find or build, although on a light car like the 510 unless your building a car for real compitition rear disc brakes are over rated. Instead swap the stock drum for a finned Z-car drum and spend the cost of your S13 rear end on the motor, wheels, . . .
You’ll notice a lack of excessive negative camber on the back of my dime even though it has been lowered quite a bit. This was acheived at no cost simply by “slotting” the cross member.
Just my thoughts though.
Well then, thanks for the info, it’ll likely save me a fair bit o’ cashola. However, how does this “slotting” of the crossmember work? Also, do you have any recommendations regarding suspension?
The dime quarterly website has a great tech section including why and how to slot the rear crossmember, but, in short, slotting the rear crossmember allows you to adjust rear camber and caster for each side. Without this the rear wheels will have excessive negative camber and look funny when the suspension is lowered. The better option is the penultimate rear crossmember (I’m building one this winter for my car).
Here is a link to the dimequarterly site: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/
For the front suspension I used a 280ZX strut with a coil over kit. This gives the car bigger vented brakes and allows the ride height to be adjusted. Again check dimequarterly for this. You may need to purchase their newsletter back-issues, well worth the price for the wealth of information provided.
Trevor.
Fantastic, thank you so much for your input - with your help, and maybe a little luck, i might just be able to avoid cocking up the project and bankrupting myself.
