I’m basically done with the clutch swap. I soaked the new frictions overnight and cleaned both mating surfaces. I put it back together Basket-friction-spring-steel-sp-fr-st-sp-fr-st-sp-fr-st-sp-fr-sp-plate
If I tighten the 5 bolts down until they bottom on the stud I cannot get the clutch to operate, however if I leave the bolts out halfway it works fine. I really don’t think the bolts should be left hanging there as I had to crack them loose during disassembly. The old springs and frictions measured within spec that I found from the shop manual I downloaded. it doesn’t go in depth about the clutch though. NOS steels and aftermarket frictions.
It seems like the springs are bottomed out but I’m not missing any parts nor is anything out of order afaik.
Any ideas? I’ve searched google/forums but nothing has came up.
I can try that but I put in the same number of parts that came off, 5 frictions and 4 steels.
I spoke with someone who said the bolts are not supposed to bottom out on the studs they just set a certain amount of tension, which makes sense I guess. He said to adjust it tight then back them off until the clutch operates. Red loctite is used to keep the bolts from backing out, but there wasn’t any of that on the bolts when I took them out and they definitely felt snugged down.
I just can’t find a torque spec anywhere. I’m going to try to look for a similar bike and see if I can find something close.
They should not be tight, If they wanted it snuged down it would be a bolt and a washer, no springs.
I’m horrible at explaining things, call me after 7pm tonight and I’ll do my best to explain.
They’re not supposed to be snug to allow movement in the springs for clutch engagement. Look up the torque spec like these guys suggested.
I ran into this same thing when I changed the clutch discs on my old 660R Raptor. However, I was paranoid/dumb enough to leave them slightly too loose, and have all the clutch basket/hub teeth smash into a nonmoving part when I tried to start the bike the first time, tearing them off. Took it to the dealer. $300 in parts and labor later……
So I tried 5 ft lbs and it still bottomed out the bolt before torque was registered. Now it’s a 6 year old snap-on 3/8 torque wrench so I don’t really trust it that low. I backed off the bolts 6 turns and it worked mint. 5 was ok but 6 seemed right. There are still 12 threads of engagement so that should be fine stress-wise, but at this point I need to make sure the bolts dont vibrate out and I’m not sure loctite is meant for that.
Adam, I lost your phone number…
---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:35 PM ----------
This picture backs up the fact that I think it should be bottomed out.
Newman, it just doesn’t make sense to take out a set of discs if I put stock sized components back in. NOS steels and new frictions that were maybe .015" thicker than the old ones. The old frictions were still within spec but I could make the clutch slip while in gear just by pushing the bike, engine off.
Edit: this picture is from an f5 which has 2 more frictions/steels than the f7 but is overall the same
I am working on a 1975 F7 for a buddy and for some reason my clutch disks are loose in the cage. I have backed off all pressure on the clutch adjuster/leaver so that isn’t an issue. I have a new clutch kit with 5 friction and 4 steel disks and springs. Everything is assembled as per the manual so I am starting to beat my head on the wall! As far as I know, it has never been disassembled. Looked like it had the original gasket when I cracked it open and there was no metal in the oil. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? The bike only has 2200 miles but was stored for 20 years. I cleaned up the carb and it runs perfectly. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
