OK so before I forget. I might also recommend a sticky for this, or I could start a new “Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Installation / Removal” thread to be stickied.
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal and Installation
Cost: ~$45 new from NAPA Auto Parts, Brake Fluid is extra
1. Inside under the dash there is a rod coming from the master cylinder that is connected to the clutch pedal by a clevis and pin setup. There is a cotter pin through the end of the pin that must be removed. Pop it out and pull the pin out. The clutch pedal should now no longer be connected to the rod on the master cylinder.
2. Next move out to the engine bay. There are 2 bolts holding the master cylinder on to the firewall from the engine bay side. The upper left most bolt can be taken off with a 3/8 drive ratchet with a ~14mm(can’t remember exact size) deep socket and an extension . It takes a little finicking around, but it can come off.
3. Bottom right most bolt takes a little more effort. Not quite sure what it is (It has liquidles hoses so I assume it has something to do with a vacuum) but there is a black unit to the right of the master cylinder that is being held down by 2 screws. Remove the screws and pull the unit out of the way as much as possible. Doing this should give access to the bottom right most bolt with a ~14mm wrench.
4. Pull the master cylinder up, but be careful not to snap the steel clutch fluid line. Find the right size wrench (12mm maybe?) and take the line off of the master cylinder. It would be a good idea to put paper towel or a rag under the unit as you remove the line as some brake fluid will leak out and, as we all know, brake fluid + paint = :o
That sums up removal. Now installation.
1. Follow above procedure in reverse.
2. When hooking up rod from master cylinder to the clutch pedal, remember to adjust it back up to the proper position. I will try to explain this as simply as possible:
a) There is a nut that is tightened up against the clevis. This nut prevents the rod from moving at all during normal vehicle use. Grab a 12mm wrench and loosen it off.
b) Now you will have to manually twist the rod to screw it either toward the master cylinder or toward the clutch pedal. It is a strange setup, but a 1/4 wrench will fit on to the rod, but only in one position. The rod looks something like the ghetto figure below:
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Where the wrench will only fit on the flat way and not the rounded way. You have to spin 90 degrees with your fingers and than another 90 degrees with the wrench (if you find it hard to twist the rod with your fingers, try pushing the rod into the master cylinder as you twist. This will help alleviate pressure pushing on the rod.). One good thing about this monkey setup is that it is easy to count the number of turns for adjusting.
As I said above, if the rod is screwed to far into the master cylinder, there will be too much pressure on the slave cylinder, which will push on the fork (release lever I think it is called. I call it fork :roll: ), which will push on the throw out bearing, which will ride the clutch. Bad stuff.
If the rod is screwed too far toward the clutch pedal, there will be to little pressure on the clutch and you may freak out like I did in one of my posts above 
I actually thought that the master cylinder was faulty at first, and that I would have to wait a week to get another new one…
Basically to find the perfect spot, you have to adjust and road test until it feels right. One way to test for clutch slippage if the rod is too far into the cylinder is to shift into third and gun the engine. If the rpms go up like crazy with little speed increase, your clutch is probably slipping. The grab and release / engage and disengage point on the clutch pedal will also be very close to the resting point of the clutch pedal (resting point is where the pedal stays when your foot is off it). Trust me, when the pedal is like this it will feel weird and you will know. This is where you would screw the rod into the pedal and out from the master cylinder 
That about sums it up for the master cylinder :E Oh and don’t forget to bleed it after installation, unless you are also installing a slave. In that case, I would install the slave after the master, and then bleed the clutch. Great instructions on how to bleed the clutch were posted on the first page by JoshB.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal and Installation
Cost: ~$25 new From NAPA Auto Parts, Brake Fluid is extra
The slave is located on the passenger side of the transmission near the front of the tranny. It has a pin that pushes against the release lever (pictures on first page).
Removal:
1. Unbolt the unit from the transmission.
2. This is where it gets a little tricky. The part of the line that bolts into the slave is static or solid, and will not spin. If you try to twist it off you will probably twist the end off of the line, and then have to go buy a new line. No, to take the slave off, we have to spin the slave. To do this you will need a crescent wrench to fit on to the slave cylinder and a wrench (~9mm I think, maybe 10?) to fit on to the end of the line.
Hold the wrench on the line in place and twist, with the crescent wrench, the slave cylinder itself. Its not easy, (and a little liquid wrench wouldn’t hurt either!) but it is possible. Be prepared to catch some brake fluid coming out of the line.
That’s pretty much it for removal. Installation is reverse.
And there you have the clutch master and slave cylinder installation and removal in as much detail as my tiny brain could recollect. Again, after you do replace the slave, bleed the clutch as described on page 1 by JoshB.
Enjoy! :partyman:
This bad boy just barely hit 3 pages in Word :rolleyes: and all I have to say is up yours crappy chiltons manual :finga:
