So I finally picked up my 240 today, had to bleed the clutch, in the process, I discovered that the rod between the piston and the fork plate is too short, it was replaced from the original one with a drill bit… I won’t even ask…
Anyway, the drill bit is too short, so when I bled the clutch and got it up to the proper pressure, I pumped it and it popped the piston right out and bound up. I have the rod out now, and I’m going to replace it tomorrow with an actual piece of round stock (unless someone has a better suggestion).
What I’d like to know is, how long is this rod supposed to be, and is there anything that holds it between the piston and the fork plate other than the indent in the plate?
Any help would be appreciated, I’m going to be working on my car tomorrow, so the sooner I can get the info the better. Otherwise, I’m just going to trial and error it, which I’d rather not do.
hmm… so you have a drill bit instead of the adjustable rod coming out of the master cylinder towards your clutch pedal? Is that correct?
How is that even attached to the little fork that connected to the clutch pedal?
In any case, the rods size doesn’t matter that much, if your pedal is sitting even with the brake pedal… you should have 1-2mm of play on the clutch pedal though…
I’m just wondering how they got that rod out of the master cylinder and replaced it with a drill bit
Yes, that’s the rod thank you, and it’s threaded, you say? Hrm… Ok, I’ll see what I can do. I’ll probably just use a straight piece of round rod and keep playing until I get the right length.
And no, the rod doesn’t go to the clutch pedal, it goes to the fork on the tranny… I’ll post pictures up later today.
Thanks for the info man… I’ve got a picture now, so you can see what I’m talking about. I don’t think it’s bent, I think it just wasn’t fixed properly.
That’s what I was talking about. I think Greg hit it on the head as to what it was… The fork doesn’t seem bent at all though, so we’ll see what it looks like when I replace the little rod.
Also, in this picture, you can see some wires hanging down, the (I believe) middle one is live. It sparked when I hit it with a wrench bleeding the clutch. Any thoughts on what that’s supposed to be attached to?
Problem solved with the clutch, it’s as I thought, the rod was too short, made a new one, put it in, clutch works like a champ… Still won’t start though.
those all look like alternator harness… and the alt. hot is directly connected to the battery at all times, the black is gorund, the two-prong is the voltage regulator plug, one inputs sense voltage the other outputs to the volt guage
So I finally picked up my 240 today, had to bleed the clutch, in the process, I discovered that the rod between the piston and the fork plate is too short, it was replaced from the original one with a drill bit… I won’t even ask…
Anyway, the drill bit is too short, so when I bled the clutch and got it up to the proper pressure, I pumped it and it popped the piston right out and bound up. I have the rod out now, and I’m going to replace it tomorrow with an actual piece of round stock (unless someone has a better suggestion).
What I’d like to know is, how long is this rod supposed to be, and is there anything that holds it between the piston and the fork plate other than the indent in the plate?
Any help would be appreciated, I’m going to be working on my car tomorrow, so the sooner I can get the info the better. Otherwise, I’m just going to trial and error it, which I’d rather not do.
hmm… so you have a drill bit instead of the adjustable rod coming out of the master cylinder towards your clutch pedal? Is that correct?
How is that even attached to the little fork that connected to the clutch pedal?
In any case, the rods size doesn’t matter that much, if your pedal is sitting even with the brake pedal… you should have 1-2mm of play on the clutch pedal though…
I’m just wondering how they got that rod out of the master cylinder and replaced it with a drill bit
