1999 Mazda Miata
Silver Exterior
Black Interior
117500ish Miles
5 Speed Manual
Recently inspected (sticker good until 6/14)
Absolutely NO RUST whatsoever
The car is in good condition. I have strong maintenance records from myself and previous owners.
Recent maintenance (in past 2k miles/3 months):
Ceramic Front Brake Pads
Pre-cat O2 Sensor
Transmission Flushed w/ Redline Synthetic Transmission Fluid (MTL & MT-90 Blend - decided upon after reading countless Miata forum reviews and they were right. It shifts nicely. Done within last 500 miles.)
Rear Differential Flushed w/ Mobil 1 Synthetic GL5 (500 miles also.)
Last oil change 1k miles previous
Recently passed NYS inspection
Good:
ABSOLUTELY NO RUST (Florida until 60k-ish, Summer only car until now)
Top is in good condition and does not leak.
Tires are above average - have a couple of summers left in them dependent on how hard and far you’re driving.
Brakes seem fine. Front pads are new
Interior is clean especially for the age.
Clutch is strong.
Predominantly stock in a positive way, no aftermarket hack up jobs.
Normal early-NB Miata issues are 100% fine (coil packs, pre cats, etc.)
Timing belt was recently inspected and is in good condition
Air conditioning blows cold (for when you have the top up!)
Bad:
Couple of small paint flaws, dings, etc. to be expected of a car this age
Couple of small body dings but nothing serious
CEL can come on occasionally. It is currently off. Throws code P0402 and I never got around to it - need instructions? Look here: http://www.madracki.com/miata/intake.html
For sure man - I don’t have room for a 2nd gay car right now so it’s pretty much sell it or tell the girlfriend to get lost while I go find some dude butt.
But really, anyone - feel free to shoot me an offer. I’m picking up a new WRX when it gets off the boat from Japan and I’m pretty willing to move this within reason.
This is true. P/o and myself both took care as to not let the glass create any pressure points when lowering the top, so I’ve been a bit careful with it. Even at full ‘careful’ I’d say 15 seconds.
edit: also, had some out of state dude ask for tons of info and he had some concerns that I thought weren’t very serious myself but I figure that I should mention them here.
The radiator cap had sprung a slight leak so I had replaced it a few months back - coolant was never ran low (still in overflow tank) and car was never overheated. It was a slow leak. Upon replacing that, I found a microscopic pin point leak in the filler neck which I threw some JB weld on. It’s held coolant perfectly in the past 3 months even on 100+ mile drives so I’ve felt no need to replace the radiator or anything of that nature. It does appear to be the stock radiator (plastic top) so if anyone was going to be adding power to this car, you probably should swap in an aluminum top radiator either way - and if you’re just DD’ing it then you’re fine.
The windows are a tiny bit slow if the car has been sitting. If I wait between weekends on driving this, the first couple of ups and downs take some time to get moving. After the tracks are broken in, they move perfectly fine. He claimed that the window motors would 100% need replacing and that some grease on the tracks would definitely not do the trick. I call BS - you’ll see what I mean if you come see the car.
There were two fender benders on this car which I’m not even sure were reported on Carfax. Regardless, he made a huge stink about it, even though there was 0 frame damage and full documented collision shop repairs.